rchelicopter

  • Since I have a lot of raptor 30 bin parts, I will replace all parts on the caliber with them...- Replace paddles with raptor 30 paddles, done on 25.06.2002 -> this suppress completely flutter ! 1 day of hard 3D without any problem
    - Add longer tail boom suppport,
    - After a crash I will certainly replace landing skids with the raptor 30 landing skids since they are more flexible (loose crash ;-)).
    - The phillips head screws used are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard). There are no substitutes. Regular metric drivers will not work. So it is a good idea to replace them all with allen screw before stripping original head screws (they are made of a very cheap metal)
    - Add an air filter, the engine sucks air from the airflow coming from the fan, this reduce possibility of dust entering in the carb.
    - You can use raptor 30 main rotor blade.
    - If you use the kyosho canopy, do not apply the decals (it is really a pain to apply them), but sligthly sand the screen and paint it instead.

  • Symptoms:
    • Engine overheating
    • Loss of power even if the motor smoke a lot

    Why? it really depends...

    • Where You are living....in the desert? do not forget that some gyro may have trouble too and may drift a lot if the day is too warm (more than 35°C). In altitude, less oxygen -> more nitro
    • The percentage of nitro/oil the more oil/nitro the cooler the engine will run -> Attention here in europe, nitromethan can cost an arm and and leg -> 30euro/liter !!! at 15%nitro. I personaly usually fly with 1% nitro! enough for learning.
    • You engine is not correctly tuned, ask a better pilot to help You set the engine. Your engine MUST smoke
    • If nothing of the above aply, You may want to try the mods below
    Cures

    (expensives)

    • Change the cooling FAN for a QuickUk
    • Change the cooling FAN for a Correct upgrade.

    Look below for others...


    http://uscaero77.free.fr/_helico/caliber30/
    Le Caliber 30 de Patrick Magnaudet
    US.Champagne/s seine Aéromodélisme

    Shown on a raptor 50, but can be done on a caliber as well


  • TERRIFIC! I was training 1 hours using the simulator REFLEX on a 4meter display (projector panasonic PT900).

    Picture will follow soon

    What is even better is that it "seems" that after a break of 1.5 Years my flying style has not degrade but slightly improve (quiet in every position, fast backward flight, some figures). I installed the update 5.1 then 5.01.01 and 5.01.02 which are all adding a lot of new features, scenes, settings
    Then I have something I usually NEVER do: I switch the interface to french, in order to see if all menu are translate. If You look into the "A propos de REFLEX" (About Reflex), You will see That I did the translation for Wolfgang.


    Some translations are not accurate anymore, I've sent him an email, Wolfgang will certainly propose the new dll in another update...

    • Si vous avez des pales bois, il faut toujours vérifier leurs bon équilibrage
    • Si vous avez des pales fibres ou carbones de marques (SAB, NHP, MS), elles devraient être correctement équilibrer dès leur sortie du carton, néanmoins vérifier quand même.

    Matériels:

    • une lame de rasoir ou un réglet métallique d'écolier.
    • Une balance de pales de type schluter ou autre... (essayer de l'emprunter ou passez chez un pote, car cela coute très cher 100€

    Méthodes:

    1. recherchez la pale la plus légère:

    • Prenez une pale et déplacer la masselotes pour équilibrer la balance, le fléau doit être horizontale.
    • Demonter et placer l'autre pale, regarder sans déplacer la masselote. Si cel apenche du coté de la pale, alors celle-ci est plus lourde que l'autre, sinon c'est l'inverse. Appelons la pale A

    2. rechercher le centre de gravité de la pale la plus légère (pale A):

    • Placer la pale A sur le réglet métallique et la déplacer de droite a gauche jusqu'a ce qu'elle soit en équilibre. Marquer au stylo ce point sur la pale. C'est le centre de gravité de la pale. (G)

    3 Equilibrage.

    • Monter à nouveau la pale la plus légère (pale A) sur la balance. Nous n'avons toujours pas touché à la masselote, il suffit de rajouter du scotch au point G jusqu'a avoir une pale horizontal sur la balance.

    C'est fini.

  • Essence:

    • Débutant ne voler que avec 1% de nitro, je vole depuis 3 ans et le gain de puissance n'est pas si faramineux. De plus en compétition, les champions tourne en 30% et disent changer le moteur dès que la puissance baisse (dà¨s 150-200 vols !!!!!). Ne passez a 10 ou 15% que lorsque vous passerez a l'acrobatie. Avant pour les stationnaires, les 8 et les figures de base, c'est vraiment jeter l'argent par les fenêtres. De plus OS tourne bien sur faible taux de nitro aux contraire des Novarossi.
    • Stocker l'essence à l'abri de la lumière et hors gel! éviter aussi les différences de température trop grande.

    Réservoir :

    • Si des bulles ou masse blanches apparaissent dans votre réservoir, alors vous avez une vibration hautes fréquences. Dans mon cas les anneaux étaient mal alignés et pas collées. Si ces dernières sont mal alignés, vous verrez petit à petit le revêtement noir disparaitre et laisser place à un brillant. (en même temps vous aurez abimer les anneaux). Donc n'oublier pas de coller avec une goutte de superglue les anneaux sur la poutre de queue.
  • Le fail safe est un dispositif disponible sur les récepteur PCM seulement, il permet du fait du codage numérique du signal (par opposition au FM) de détecter les interférences radio et de programmer la position de tous les servo pendant la durée des tops radio. Beaucoup de débat ont eu lieu sur le sujet, voila ce que la plupart recommandent : Maintient de tous les servos dans leurs positions précédant les tops radio et mise au ralenti du moteur.

    Pourquoi ?

    • En cas de crash, le moteur tournant moins vite, les dégats de la machine ou matériels aux tiers seront moins importants,
    • En maintrenant la position des servos, vous aurez une chance de prédire la zone d'impact,
    • En cas de tops radio passager, vous entendrez le régime moteur baisser soudainement, preuve qu'il se passe qq chose. Et naturellement vous aurez le réflexe de vous poser.
    • Si l'interférence vient de la mécanique même, réduire le régime moteur aura une chance de la supprimer de facto.

  • This suppress wooble, even down to 1200 rpm. As usual, do this mod only if your heli encounter wooble, mine never develop this.

       
    "Flip the washout, grips, flybar control arms, and the bell mixing arms. If you use the stock washout you need to remove the pins and mount them the other way. I used a Freya washout slider from my spares box. The Freya washout is better because it has a brass bushing in the slider. If you use the Freya washout, remove the washer on the pivot bolt and replace with an M3 plain nut for a spacer to retain proper phasing to the swashplate. You will also have to use longer screws. The balls on the bell mixer must be swapped to the other side of the arm. Keep the bell mixer drooping down but flip them the other way on the flybar. If you want to know how this works read the post "Delta" in the main discussion but be prepared for some heavy reading and some head scratching. Thanks to Wayne Mann for the idea."Text by CK_
    Go onwww.runryder.com and search for "flip the head caliber 30"

    Another version by Harrier
    Basically, the Caliber 30 has issues with wobbling at low rpm (you'll probably experience this around 1st gallon of fuel). The problem has to do with the fact that the Delta angle on the C30 head needs to be changed (there's a huge write up on that on runryder.com -
    http://runryder.com/showtopic.htm?s=&topicid=31039 )
    Anyways, you must reverse the linkages on the head to eliviate this problem. Though intimidating, its really not that hard (I'm a total heli beginner and did it in 2 hours) Once it's done, you shouldn't experience any other issues with wobbles. I had a great guy on here (FLASHOVER) help me out, and I'll transcribe what he wrote me so you can understand how to do it. There are also pics to look at the finished product in my gallery.

    Here's how FLASH walked me through it:

    Step 1
    Take the head off leaving the rotor grips and linkages in tack on the swashplate for now.

    Step 2
    Now that you have the head off, we are now going to work on the block ass. #'s 912, and 872. First take off # 872 and set that aside.Than the block, take it off the main shaft you need to notice that the wash out arms are in the block on the left side. Take off the wash out arms and set them aside. Now measure how far the pins are sticking out off the block and right that down.Than take a small set of vice grips and take out the pins from the block. Try not to make deep cuts in the pins from the vice grips. Now that you have the pins out use the existing holes as a guide for the drill bit. Go at a steady pace when drilling the holes and make sure to try and drill straight. After the holes are drilled take the pins and you are going to place the pins in the block on the flipped side. Remember not to put them in the same holes as before. When you look at the block the wash out arms should be on the right side. To put the pins in the block it is going to take a little hammering. It should be tight when putting them in.

    Step 3
    The next thing that we are going to work on is The flybar arangement! Make sure that you keep all of your parts seperated.

    Now if you look at the head you can see your Hiller control arms 879 and the mixing arms # 884. They need to be flipped also. What we are going to do is work this one side at a time. This way you won't get to confused with the arangement.Ok first thing is too take off a paddle, it doesn't matter whitch side you start with just pick a side. There is a hex kit with are calibers that go to the different screws make sure you use the one that goes with the kit. Now there is a little hex srew in the paddle were the spindle shaft (870) enters the paddle. Unscrew that, than turn the paddle counter clockwise to unscrew the paddle from the shaft! Don't worry about the measurement of both sides we will work on that later. Try to keep the hex srews to the corasponding parts.
    Ok now you will have to be careful and take out the hex screw to the hiller control arm. You can take this off now and set it aside. The next item # 884 mixing arm has two little black washers, one on each side so be careful not to loose those they are very important and people have had problems with there chopper because they didn't remember to put those back in. Now, you don't need to set it down because what you are going to do is flip it around. If you are looking straight foward at the head ass. you should see that there are three linkage holes on the left side now and the one linkage hole is on the right.
    Now that the mixing arm is done you can put the hiller control arm back on. You need to have locktight, I don't think that I mentioned it sorry. But every heli pilot owns alot of locktight, loose bolts are not are friend they are the enemy. Ok so all of the ass. bolts need locktight on them, the blue type is better because you might need to replace parts and the red locktight is too strong so you may end up stripping something, not good. Allright the mixing arm and hiller arm need to be flush with the head, no slop ok. This side is going to be the guide side and everything else will be adjusted from this. After you have completed this side do the other side. But don't put the paddles back on leave them off. When it is all said and done take a flat ruller and measure from the hiller control arm to the tip of the shaft. Than measure the other side. You should get the same measurement
    if not get it to be equal on both sides.

    Step 4
    Now that all of the parts have been changed over it is time to put it all back together. Offcource first thing to go back on is the slide block. After that goes on put the collar back on but do not put locktight or tighten her down just yet. With her on and the bolts snug move the block up into the collar with your hand. See if you have any binding.If there is binding just correct the problem to whare you can get freeplay. My helo was binding a little I just used the vice grips to push them in or out. Remember we like are machines to be smooth as silk.

    Next on the agenda is to put the head back on. You can use locktight on that bolt and make sure that she is tight, we don't want her to get loose.

    Now the fun part, with the blades off flip the grip to the other side. Remember we start with one side than work over to the other side. Now use your locktight and screw that ball link in the last whole counting from the left, so it should be right next to the heller control arm. Than take the link from the grip and snap it into that ball link. Now take anouther ball link and again use locktight and screw it into the very first whole starting from the left. Now take that link and snap it from there to the swashplate. Everything is 90 degrees from each other ok. Now do that same process to the other side.

    Part three to the process is to connect the washout arms.
    Before connecting them to the block, we need to putt the ball links on. Lets start with the outside one starting from the left. Instead of the ball on the outside, it will be facing to the inside closes't to the main shaft. On the other side flip the washout arm link # 916 to whare it is facing down. Now use locktight and screw the washout unit to the block. The washout link that you just flipped down will be on your right side when bolting the washout unit to the block. Now you can connect the washout link to the swashplate 90 degrees from the first link that you just put on. Ok now do the same to the other side.

    Now you told me that one of the hiller control arms was locktighted good we will work from that one. Take your heli and put it up on a table were you can look at the head ass. at eye level. Now go ahead and screw a paddle back on to the shaft all the way down. Use locktight and put the hex screw in its slot. Now look right at the aft tip of the paddle and the ball tip of the hiller control arm. Get that paddle to match that arm as perfect as your naked eye can get it. Be very careful not to bump your adjustment and tighten the hex screw really firm. Now match the other hiller control arm to the one we just adjusted. And now put on the other paddle, but this time when you screw the paddle on make sure that both sides are of equal lenght. I measured mine from inside the hiller control arm tip to the inside tip of the paddle. You should be able to get them really close if not dead on.
    Now tighten that hex screw again being very careful not to bump your measurment. Ok now connect those links to the swashplate.
    All right last things!!!
    Ok now if you were to look down from the top of the head we need to aline the spindle shaft with the inside ball links of the swashplate. Use your fingers and move the block and collar to whare the shaft is right on top of one of the inner swashplate ball links. When that is good without moving it out of allignment move the swashplate by hand up and down. With the swashplate all the way down tighten the collar to whare there is just a little bit of pin left in the collar slotts. Make sure to just tighten one down than take the other one out carefully and put locktight on it. Than put that in and tighten it all the way down. Than you can do the same to the other side. After that is complete you are done with the head flip.
    The only things left to do are to put the blades on and set up the radio. It can be a little tricky since you had flipped the head. Basically remember that the Pitch direction has changed most importantly so change this in your radio.
    Hope this helps!

     

    http://heliprodigy.homestead.com/caliber30.html has very good pictures on the result.

  • CSM 540

    • Cable for PC + Software cost 30€ to build only 5€

    Softwar Here

    Documentation (winword manual)

    • How to build your own realistic controler (for Realflight®,or any other simulator that use a regular joystick). All you need is to kill an old radio, extract PCB, and solder some cable.

    All credits to : http://www.iquebec.com/st-prime/modif_rc.html where the following picture was extracted.

    radio_ordi.jpg

    radio_ordi.jpg

    • Connect CSM 10 to a futaba FF9 :You must own the dongle, we only want to bypass the use of the jack connector and use a DIN..or connect to the proprietary connector..
      There is no standard off the shelf plug for this socket but you can use two 2mm pitch 3 pin headers or cut a training cord. Looking into the socket you need to link the bottom row middle and right pins. The top left pin connects to the tip of the 3.5mm jack and the top middle connects to the body of the 3.5mm jack. Plug is drawn when looking at the back of the plug where the wires are

    • Connect CSM 10 to a futaba FF8 or to any game or serial adapter
      FF8- 6 pin DIN plug (60 degree pins) pins 4 and 5 linked in plug, pin 2 to 3.5mm mono jack tip and metal outer of DIN plug to body of 3.5mm jack.

  • FUTABA

    • Training cord cost 160 FF build 28 FF
    FUTAM.GIF
    AM version
    FUTFM.GIF
    FM version
    • CAMPAC memory extension and backup to PC with excel tablecost 75€to build only 6€

    (EEPROM 2.5€) Plan + software (http://members.telocity.com/fritzthecat/campac.html )
    Work only for the FF8, not for the WC or FF9 !

  • It can be very dangerous to have your swashplatte being caught while flying by the correct FT canopy (fiber). You will have to remove a small amount of material in order to fly safe. (use a dremel)
  • /images/futaba14MZ.jpg

    • Double the resolution of PCM 1024,
    • The HVGA screen features crystal-clear 640x240 pixel resolution,
    • 2 internal processors for maximum efficiency and reliability.
    • Windows CE (quite dangerous :-) ).
    • www.14mz.com
    • FlyRC
    • My review:
      • Too expensive: for $2000 you can have a Futaba 9z (top of the line) + a very good ladtop
      • Nobody will be looking at the colour screen while flying: too dangerous for the aircraft
      • Telemetry feature are missing (altitude or better main rotor rpm for helicopter)



  • Mark the edge of the black plastic part with a pen
    before removing
    Thunder Tiger recommend you to glue your blade with epoxy glue.
    Kyosho say nothing in the manual about this subject. I agree that
    the Caliber 30 has 4 screws vs only 2 for the raptor 30....but
    This mods increase security for sure and cost nothing :
    • Remove the blade covering under the plastic blade grips :
      trace an outline around the grips with a pen.
    • Then remove the grips.
    • Carefully cut the plastic wrap away with a cutter.
      Be carefull not to cut into the wood !!
    • Do this to both sides and use some epoxy to glue the grips on.
  • H1, H2, H3, H4?
    Le H1, c'est quand le plateau cyclique est commandé par : un servo pour le rouli, un servo pour le tangage, et un servo pour le pas collectif.
    Le H2, c'est quand le plateau cyclique est commandé par: 2 servos pour le rouli ( un en push et un en pull ), un servo pour le tangage, et ces trois servos montent et descendent en même temps pour le collectif.
    Le H3, c'est quand les trois servos disposés à 120 ° sur le plateau cyclique. Un mixage de l'émetteur permet de faire du tangage et du rouli. Le collectif est fait par ces 3 servos qui montent et qui descendent en même temps.
    Le H4 , c'est quand les 4 servos sont disposés à 90° l'un par rapport à l'autre. Pour le tangage il y en a 2 qui font push pull , et pour le rouli, les 2 autres font push pull. Le collectif est assuré par les 4 servos qui montent et qui descendent en même temps.
  • Hacker B50-10XL Motor/Kontronik heat sink
    Kontronick 60-10-24 ESC
    24- 3300nimh cells
    By CryHavoc on www.rcgroups.com
    Click Here for reading the full thread



  • On my caliber 1, using double side tape. use zip tie to
    secure the tank...

    On my caliber 2....

    Help to balanced the heli if needed. Won't work with
    a raptor 30 canopy.
    by Steve_JR

    by the Joeker
  • Found that 3 days ago on www.runryder.com&160;

    This look very interesting and promising, look like a good add-on to avoid crash while learning. I've read
    many comments which do not agree and consider this as cheating. It is like hearing the same sentences
    about heading hold gyro many years ago...
    I consider that anything that can avoid crash is a GOOD thing, and I would like to see more electronic
    going into my helicopters. More sensors, less settings (yes helicopter are fun to set up but like with cars,
    not everybody want to tune its motor/electronic settings 20 hours before driving...). I would like to throw
    my glow motor away: just to have a constant head speed, repeatable run like with any electro engine...

    Is it not good for all of us to see more people jumping into our hobby? The Thunder Tiger Raptor 30 has done
    that in 2001 because it was cheap to fly and maintain! I am flying RC helicopter because it is fun, not just to
    show that I can while so many can't...

    Price: 550$ = 4 crash or just one big crash ;-)

    HeliCommand3D
    &160; &160;

    &160;

    The HeliCommand stabilizes the geographical position of the model helicopter it also
    stabilizes its flight attitude.
    The HeliCommand incorporates several control and measurement systems (triple axis gyros and an optical
    CCD sensor) to provide a superb of stability. It is ideal for the beginner. It adds a level of control and
    confidence that prior to this time has been unavailable to any model helicopter pilot. The HeliCommand
    provides a level of safety and accident reduction that previously has been unknown in the realm of helicopter
    modeling. Dual redundancy (in both the hardware and software programming) throughout was designed into
    the HeliCommand. In addition to all of the above the HeliCommand incorporates a full Failsafe unit incase of
    radio failure.
    Possesses the same characteristics as the HeliCommand 3A, but also features:

    • attitude stabilization in inverted flight
    • support for brief 3-D maneuvers.

    Integral functions:

    • Tail rotor gyro - The HeliCommand unit features an integral high-quality heading-hold gyro. Of course,
      a separate gyro can also be used if you prefer.
    • Auto-trim
    • Swashplate mixer
      The HeliCommand unit incorporates a comprehensive integral swashplate mixer (H2, HR3, H4). This makes
      it possible to control all current types of helicopter using simple radio control systems (without swashplate
      mixers). In this case the display module or the PC adaptor and software is required in order to carry out
      adjustments. The mixer settings are entered using a new form of procedure which is very simple to operate;
      this saves the user the task of studying the menu system etc.
    • Pilot channel
      The effect of the stabilizing / positioning mode can be adjusted proportionally using a spare radio control
      channel; it can also be switched off completely for 3-D flying.
    • The in-flight switchable gain system offers three different positions: Stage 0 = Off (conventional)
      Stage 1 = Attitude regulation (stabilization)
      Stage 2 = Position-holding and "ground-speed" regulation
    • Fail-safe
      High-quality fail-safe function with FM receivers. If the radio link fails, the fail-safe responds extremely quickly
      and almost continuously, setting the roll-axis and pitch-axis functions to neutral, whilst maintaining the collective
      pitch function at the last value.


      http://www.helicommand.com
      HeliCommand - VIDEOS auf YouTube
  • Thunder_Tiger_eRaptor

    L'avenir de l'hélico passe par la motorisation électrique mais pas encore dans l'immédiat, 5 a 10 ans de patience a mon avis. Le temps que les piles à conbustibles/de meilleurs batteries que les Nicad/NiMh soient disponible. En attendant et si vous savez piloter, considérer un helico électrique en 10 ou max 16 élts, surtout pas en 24 ou 30 élts, ce sont de vrai gouffre financier. Ci-dessous un tableau comparatif des avantages et inconvénients des deux mondes...

    prix en Euro €

     

    Thermiques Electriques
      os50sx
    sur une base de Thunder Tiger Raptor 30
    plettenberg
    sur une base de Thunder Tiger Raptor 30 en 24 élts
    Moteur 190 240
    Contrôleur 0 90
    Bougies 1 pour 12 pleins 31 0
    Durite 5 0
    Cables électrique de qualité 0 3
    servo cmd de gazs 15.25 le minimum, un fataba 3001 0
    Démarreur 38.11 le minimum un eco 60 0
    Socket 7.62 0
    Pot 42.7 0
    Cloche embrayage raptor 0 0
    Rallonge démarreur 9.15 0
    Chargeur 15.25

    Un chargeur bas de gamme suffit mais n'est pas recommandé pour la sécurité de vos modèles.

    190.56

    Un chargeur haut de gamme type UltraDuo 2 est indispensable.

    Consommables pour 116 h rc2400 en 24 elts ou synth glow 1% de nitro 518.33 110
    total EURO €
    872.41 €
    633.56 €
    Consommables calcul 116 heures pour 174 litres a 1,5l a l'heure type os50sxH 116 heures pour 1000 charge à 7min de vol par charge (la réalité serait plutot 400 charges..)
    Avantages / inconvénients    
    Temps de vols 13 min 6,5 a 11 min suivant type de vol et la vitesse rotor
    Pause entre vol Aucune hormis le temps de refaire le plein, vérifier accus et faire la checklist de prévol. Si vous avez 1 seule batterie, 30 min entre les vols
    (charge et refroidissement moteur-accus)
    Réglages Fréquents suivant votre essence et les conditions atmospheriques (humidité et températures) Aucun si le contrôleur a un mode gouvernor integré (régulation de la vitesse du rotor).
    Maintenance Nettoyage des filtres, changement des durites, bougies, nettoyage du moteur si arrêt prolonge. Nettoyage après chaque vol car la mécanique est huilé. Aucune maintenance avec un moteur brushless. La mécanique reste propre et non grasse.
    Distribution de la puissance Constante jusqu'a la dernière goutte de carburant. Le moteur peut couper à tout moment. Baisse progressive la derniere minute puis risque de perte de l'appareil soudaine (autorotation)
    Rapport poids puissance Très bon Mauvais encore aujourd'hui même avec des li-ion.
    Puissance 2.7CV Les moteur Actro développe jusqu'a 1200 Watts
    Facilité d'emploi Moyen Trés facile
    Investissement Peu élevée mais les consommables coutent cher sur la distance, à 30€ les 10 litres. Tres élevée, mais peu de consommables par la suite a acquérir
    Sécurité Bonne mais attention les moteurs thermiques vibrent plus Faites attention aux interférences du contrôleur et aux tops radio qui peuvent faire démarrer le moteur n'importe quand !
    Bruit Elevé > 80dB Bruit moyen et presque agréable. Il devient possible de voler sous le vent à proximité de résidences.
    Pollution Le nitrométhane est très toxique au contact et a l'inhalation: affection pulmonaire et Cancer Pas d'émission toxiques en fonctionnement hormis si il y a rejet des batteries dans la nature.
    Radiation ElectroMagnétique trés forte mais diminuant rapidement avec la distance
    Simplicité Engrenages et réduction sont sources de vibration, Légereté de la mécanique sans accus, simplicité car souvent un embrayage direct sans cloche
    Conclusions L'avenir de l'hélico passe par la motorisation électrique mais pas encore aujourd'hui, 5 a 10 ans de patience a mon avis. Le temps que les piles à conbustibles soient disponible. En attendant et si vous savez piloter, considérer un helico électrique en 10 ou max 16 élts, surtout pas en 24 ou 30 élts, ce sont de vrai gouffre financier.
  • nullThere are a number of good entry level heli&39;s on the market at varying prices, such as the TT Raptor 30 and the Kyosho Caliber 30

    Some of the points to consider are:
    1- availability of parts (be it from your local LHS or mail order or net order (helps when you have a mishap and break something)
    2- the availability of assistance (your choice may be a more problem prone then something else, so it will help if you have someone locally that has had the same problems and solved them). It also helps if you have locals who can help you with the initial heli, radio and engine set up.
    3- the dependability of the units - the few problems you may have to solve with the heli (e.g clutch systems that are prone to early wear and failure, rotor heads that are more susceptible to blade flutter, engines that wah-wah, mufflers that are loud. leak and/or break, support struts that may have a tendency to break, swashplates and other parts of the control system that develop excessive play early on will still fly but will greatly increase the workload on your two thumbs and slow your progress.
    4- the durability of the unit - the fewer the parts that break in a crash the easier it will be to fix and probably the lower will be the cost to fix. If brand A has less expensive parts but the lower mainframe breaks more easily then brand B then it may cost more to repair as you will have extra parts to buy.
    5- the cost of parts - in conjunction with the above will reflect on the cost of the repair
    6- cost of maintainance - the less dependable units will have higher maintenance costs in both money and time. The money and time spend replacing clutches for example can be considered with the cost of repairing crashes.
    7- running costs - here the 30 size come out way ahead.
    8- short term to long term costs - a heli that is relatively low priced and can easily be set up to be trainer stable in the hover and later be set up for hard 3D and aerobatics before wearing out or needing expensive upgrades will offer both advantages. Ditto for radio, gyro and engine /exhaust combinations

    I use to have a raptor in 2000 but it has a so strong woof and poof... and since nothing seems to cured the problem (i changed so many parts in it, it cost me a lot in time and money) : as a result I do not really fly much in 2001, add the the very bad weather (it was raining everytime during week end). A friend decide to buy a moskito (he has the same problem with his raptor) and i did the same too (bought in UK for a very low price). Then a futura entered in my fleet but only for 1 months. I was too scared each time i was flying : what would cost me a crash ??. In february 2002, I buy another used raptor 30 with alot of parts for a very low price, then found the eraptor and the heaven on ebay........I will stay with the raptor and I know some pilot who now resells their futura or millenium : too expensive : a crash with a Robbe Millenium can cost you 2 raptor kit 30 ARF!

    Now I must admit, that i do the same mistake as many pilot :I upgrade my machine too much. "take a good exhaust", "add a metal part here : less slope". "change this, you need better servo" As a result you have a machine who cost nearly 1500€ !!!!! but know I recover my mind, and exchange all parts, gaining 5% or less with a better exhaust at 120€ is for me now crazy: a crash and you lost everything...... so keep your raptor stock ! Robbe and other compagny should reduce their part&39;s prices. Do not try to follow experimented pilot or people who are doing competition: they do not always pay their heli... (free from manufacturer)

    Tips :

    • Flying heli is fun, but it is even better if you fly a cheap and easy to repair heli, forget high-end heli with lot of upgrade or carbon frames, forget 60 size for everyday flight.
    • Choose upgrades that can increase SECURITY of your model and persons, nothing else. Upgrades part can break or usually bend in a crash (metal swashplate....)
    • You can increase security by only changing some parts in your heli or following some advices/tips from experimented pilot or forums.
    • A crash can occur at ANY TIME, don&39;t play poker with your life ! always sacrify the heli ! it is just a mechanical toy and you can buy many parts to repair it, it is not the case for your body or for replacing killed people.....
    • Cause of crash in increasing order : external events (birds, collision with airplane) -> mechanical failures -> radio glitches -> pilot MISTAKES
  • Controlling a RC Helicopter
  • nullSince a lot of people are reading this page, I update it with my experience and the latest state of the art. Solutions to get a Realflight©® G2working copy are:
    • Go and search on eDonkey network, with eDonkey client or better with eMule (both are peer to peer client program). All you have to do is to download the image (500Mo in rar files) and wait the download completion...
    • Make a bakup copy of your original CD.

    Backup your original realflight G2

    So first I let me say I made a backup copy of the CD which I bought and as in no way pirated since that is illegal. Stealing overpriced programs by piracy is wrong. Okay well I used clonecd (it work for me with 4.0.19) and made an image with one of my cd-reader. In fact you can try with all cd reade/burner till you get a correct dump! To know if the dump is correct, I suggest you to mount the image with daemon tool, and see when you mount the image if the install setup is starting and can be completed.

    Realflight©® is protected with "Safedisk 2.0" (why the hell did they not use a dongle like CSM). It uses complex patterns of bad sectors to overload the decoder in most CD writers. (note that some writer do not care, like some Mitsumi or Philips burner, search on internet for a list, recent burner seems to burn nearly everything, even "copy protect" audio cd can be read)

    To know if you can successfuly burn a working copy, look at you CD burner, it must handle the EFM technology, otherwise you can simulate the EFM with clone CD built-in function AWS (Amplify Weak Sector). The key of success with "Safedisk 2.0" is to burn the image very slowly, max 4X

    I used CloneCD to both read and write the software successfully. Of course this should only be done to make personal backup copies, and for no illegal purposes. With clone Cd > 4.0.19, you must choose the profile: protected CD and use at least a burner that support DAO RAW (Best) or RAW SAO + SUB
    Personnaly, I do not recommend to do a backup in this way: I prefer to store the image on disk (a lot of us has more than 100Go) and simulate the CD drive with daemon tool. Advantage, the program is starting in 5 seconds, vs 45 seconds with the original CD. You can create a virtual drive, let say L: and modify the file fileread.iniin realflight/ to point to L:

    Try to upgrade your simulator to the version 533, because it will not ask you each 2 days to insert/swap all CD. Do not upgrade to the latest version since they introduce a new protection scheme rfdcdverify.exe(someone report that alcohol 120% outpassed this new security, but I did not test it)

    Simulate a CD drive

    1.0 Daemon tool 3.02 and daemon UI 1.52
    Now what Daemon tools does is to allow you to mount CD images created by Clone CD &39;AND&39; bypass the "Safedisk 2" protection code when you access the mounted images. Think of it as an additional CD drive on your system that is smart about protected CDs. Clone CD is used to copy your licensed original RF, RF Add-ons, and G2 CDs and save them as image files on your hard drive. Daemon UI just provides a nice little Windows user interface to simplify mounting and unmounting of the CD images. Also since Realflight©® only knows about one CD drive you MUST use the Daemon Tools virtual drive for all of your RealFlight©® disks (cannot mix with real CDs for Add-ons CDs or such). To change RealFlight©® to use your new (virtual) CD drive just edit fileread.ini in the RealFlight©® program directory to point to the drive letter of the virtual drive (ie InstallDir=L:&92;).
    Now this setup seems to work 100%. When Realflight©® askes you to insert one of the other disks just use Daemon UI to eject/unmount the current CD image and Mount the requested one.
    In mount settings, do not forget to activate the following:

    Locate the image file (.ccd if create with clone cd) and mount it. Everything is done with mouse right click

    2.0 Alcohol 120%

    The name of this tool is very strange, but it support nearly all image format (.ccd .cue. .iso .mds...) and can burn, read, create virtual drive. It has an assistant with built in profile to outpassed most protection scheme. It work with Realflight©® and all addon, I test it with version 1.3.5. A trial version can be downloaded at www.alcohol-soft.com

    Support Realflight©® and please buy the software, otherwise we will have no next release of Realflight©®!
    Ask Realflight
    ©® company to release or open the physical engine, and provide a airplanes editor!
    You can find original CD on ebay for less money. Simulator are not toys, they are TOOLS

    Links

    Clone CD www.elby.de
    Daemon Tools www.daemon-tools.com
    DaemonUI www.daemon-tools.com
    Alcohol 120% www.alcohol-soft.com

    How to backup the latest G2 update

    Here is my solution, often use:

    • Install on a internet capable PC (we name it A) your copy of G2, and update to the latest release.
    • Copy from (A) the directory realflight and the knifeedge directory located in &39;program files/common files/knifeedge&39; to a blank CD.
    • Go to the next PC (we name it B) with original installation disk and backup of A on CD.
    • Install Realflight G2 on pc (B)
    • You have now a working version of Realflight G2 but with an "old release"
    • Overwrite the original directory you just install with the backup from pc A from the backup CD.
    • Note: it work even with addons...

    Port of Realflight server

    You can see the port number if you have a Firewall installed.

    • www.hobbico.com [206.221.233.121], port 10160
    • 64.66.167.148, port 21
    • 64.66.167.148, port 17196
  • Normally newbies never complains about this... try in order (first item are costing nothing, last solution is the most expensive):
    • Adjust your pitch curves (too much ° pitch asked ?),
    • Adjust your throttle curves,
    • Add more nitromethan, try 15% then 30%, but be careful of the fuel price and lifetime of engine!
      • Switch for an exhaust pipe, (Hatori...) +5 to +7% increase
    • Use smaller blade, (505mm instead of 550 mm),
    • Change for a better motor, (OS46 or OS50 instead of 30''size)

    For more basics advices, search for FAQs on internet, a lot of documents has been already written.....



  • - Drills 4 or 6 holes in the muffler (4 mm), this let the engine better works, noise increase is not so big. Engine is working a lot better !

    - You can even try to take out the whole baffle, and win 200rpm -> this increase the sound a little bit.

    - TIPS :
    Overtighten the exhaust screw when the heli is still hot (after a 3 min flight for ex.). Replace the philips screw with hex screws (3mm)


  • <>
    Why a raptor 30 canopy?

    + Less ugly, moreover the R30 V2 is really nice (ok, it's not a princess but this is a personal point of view)
    + Real windows for watching the battery monitor,
    + Access to the needle, can be finally adjust realtime,
    + Lot lighter ( vs 237 grammes for the original canopy),
    + The exhaust can not melt the canopy ;-)
    + Better cooling,
    + Cheaper 30 size canopy of the market ($19).
    + Body retaining is easier, faster : 2 grommets instead of 4 "easy to loose" screws
    + Survive to many crash.


    Take a look at the caliber 30 manual, page 17, remove the 2 screw
    number 948 and replace them with philips screw or similar. We need to
    remove them because the are not suited for the raptor 30 canopy.

    You shall move the "hook" to the nearest
    position you can (to the edge of the canopy)


    You can cut the edgebut it is nott needed (not done on picture)

    Cut here in order to let the swashplatte moving freely. Cut the canopy to let some space between the muffler and the body if required.

    - The 2 fixing canopy screws (page 17, part 949) are iritating and if you don't forget to overtighten them, then you can loose one in flight. The best solutions is definitively to use the thunder tiger system part: PV0061

    Caution :I tried Fabian Wiedemann fiber canopy (well known brand in Europe that fit well on most 30 size). They can not be mount on the caliber, the radio tray is hitting the inside windows of canopy....

    You've done it! Result is below :
    15.11.2002 Kyosho now sell a fiber canopy:


  • me flying with the raptor in realflight g2....

    me flying in realflight g2 (need addon3 for having raptor 30 & 60 look)

    Â

    History :

    I bought Realflight®© deluxe refursbished for 100€ in 2001 with the plastic controller box then the update G2 for another 100€.....expensive at first sight but it save me so much money (at least 100 times more).

    Good

    - Nice looking, maybe the best graphics on the market today.(see raptor 30 with addon3)
    - Possibility to simulate flight failures,
    - Network gaming (if you have a permanent internet access)
    - A lot of new color schemes can be found freeely on internet (see below in links), but it is only a skins for existing heli or airplanes.
    - You can build airport but you have a limited number of items.
    - You can record your flights and demo, distribute them,
    - There is a virtual instructor to learn new tricks,
    - Games in games : events like autorotation, precision landing.

    Bad

    - Helicopter simulation is no realistic at all! but I slowly discover why it is so bad (you do not notice it till you do not display the frame rate): go to section : Increase realism
    - No graphical editor for airplanes and heli : KnifeEdge (the editor) want to sell add ons at very high prices.
    - Overall bad realism....why ? if you want to recognize a good simulator, mesure data on your model and put it into the simulator, if the feeling is different then something is wrong in the physical model.
    - Crazy protecting system! you must always have the realflight cd inserted! and sometimes realflight is asking you all others CD : RFdeluxe, then Cd update the addon2 then addon3 etc : it is slow, disturbing and can be easily outpass with daemon tools (note that version 2.00.570 seem not to accept any virtual cd, hee knife edge that is not in the software relase note !). Why do they not use a dongle instead ?
    - The wind affects are not properly modeled, the wind in the sim is linear from the ground up in the real word the height causes a much greater affect. additionally the turbulence is (for want of a better word) "swirling" and has both vertical as well as horizontal components. The settling with power is totally absent from the sim, as a result it is not very useful.
    - Flight Model is TOO EASY, and still too SLOW. A way too much inertia.

    My Wish:

    1- open the physic engine, so we can tune equations
    or use better equations if cpu power is enough (what do you do with 2800MHz????)
    2- better simulation of heli inertia...
    3- better simulation of wind or at least with more tuning options
    3- Vortex ring problem
    4- heli editor or at least release some converter or open the internal specs of file, Some of us can write an editor.
    5- a draganflyer!!!!
    6- sell a heli version/ a airplane version / a full version
    7- more heli lessons (instructor)

    overall inmprove the physic engine, in reality things get worse really faster than in simulator.

    When will Knife Edge open their physic engine (equations), so we can tune or rewrite them ??
    When will Knife Edge release their format specs so people can build planes editor ?
    I would like to say : NEVER since they release quite expensive addons (which bring nothing)

    Conclusions:

    - There is no other simulator which is so nice, even if the physic is so bad.

    Â

    Increase realism

    The heli is difficult to maintain ? to fly ? and you crash in less than 3 second ? welcome back to some reality !!!!!!
    As a result on my pc nearly every visual enhancement are switch off, but that is the cost for having a little more reality. (just to say I bought CSM 10.1 on ebay.....)

    Which PC for Realflight ?

    My PC PC of my Brother
    PC1
    VIA KT133, duron 800 Mhz, Hercules GeForce 2 GTS 64Mo, 512 Mo SDRAM 133MHz, IBM 60 Go 7200 tr/min UDMA66, all test at 1280x1024 32bits
    (I want to test Realflight®© G2 on a better configuration before updating mine, I do not think that a geforce 4 will help, maybe a better cpu....definitively a free update from knife edge to improve physics)

    PC2
    I&39;ve tested Realflight on my PC (see above) and on the following :
    Athlon Xp 1600, Leadtek geforce TD 2500 (geforce4 4400 overclocking @ 4600), 512 Mo DDR 266Mhz, IBM 80 Go 7200 tr/min UDMA100, all test at 1280x1024 32bits

    PC4
    NVIDIA Nforce2, duron 800 Mhz, Hercules GeForce 2 GTS 64Mo, 512 Mo DDR 2700, IBM60Go + IBM80Go + MAXTOR120Go 7200 tr/min UDMA133, all test at 1280x1024 32bits

    PC3
    I&39;ve tested Realflight on my PC (see above) and on the following :
    Athlon Xp 2800, Leadtek geforce TD 2500 (geforce4 4400 overclocking @ 4600), 1024 Mo DDR 266Mhz, IBM 80 Go 7200 tr/min UDMA100, all test at 1280x1024 32bits

    What I have noted on PC2:
    - If you desactivate nearly everything, the FPS (frame per second) counter seem to reach limit value which is near 90 fps.
    - Grass is consuming alone > 20 fps !
    - People and in fact increasing number of object to the max let you go between 40 and 45 fps (was below 20 fps on PC1), which should be enough, but the problem is the frontier between 80 fps and 45 fps, some glitches are encountered and when flying you feel the changes.

    My Conclusion :
    If you want to make a demo, activate every items otherwise deactivate as much items as possible ! in fact nobody is flying beside trees or walls in real life...if you do so maybe your flying field is not well choosen. It make no sense to go for a new PC, It seems to me that bad performances, or non linear increase in fps is due to bad programming or overflow in current PC architecture. Remember that a geforce 2 is 4 times less expensive than a geforce 4

    Links

    • Michael Prewitt and his excellent website www.raptortechnique.com (a must in english) is providing heli script and color scheme for the raptor 30. note that addon3 contain the most realistic view of a raptor 30 and 60 look (see the pic on the top of this page). Of course they fly bad... :-(
    • Search with google for the "G2 exchange page", a lot of airport, color scheme, planes and heli for free.

    Connect your own interface for 40€ !

    First you must buy the rc2p from Andreas Pieper (through www.ebay.de ), it allow you to connect any TX to the gameport, In Realflight, choose "controller calibration", then personal and edit. Assign fonctions as following :

    Channel Name Paddle Direction Invert
    1 Aileron 1 right-left No
    2 Profondeur 1 up-down No
    3 Gazs 2 right-left YES
    4 Rudder 2 up-down YES
    switch 3 Iddle Up inter1   YES

    Other keys can be emulated with the keyboard....

    Some remarqs :

    • The controller is entirely in the plug (CMS component) and the quality is professional.
    • Only regret, it can only controls 4 channels + 1 switch.
    • GREAT to use your real TX, feeling is a lot better ! (weight of TX, tension of sticks, position of fingers etc...)
    • It is a lot cheaper than the interface provided by Realflight®© (>230€ in France).

    Raptor 60 tweaking :credit to Twobeers (RunRyder)

    • Reset the all the gyro settings to original values to start with.
    • Go to the Jet Ranger and write down all the tail figures and change the tail figures of the Raptor 60 so that they are the same as the Jet Rangers.
    • If you want a faster piro rate double or triple the gyro&39;s piro rate under the gyro tab of the edit aircraft model.
    • Set the gyro to always on under the edit radio page.
    • Lower the paddle weights by 5grams.
    • Make the servo&39;s a little faster.

    Raptor 30 tweaking :credit to Mad Scientist (RunRyder)
    Download te following file and save it in your "planes" directory

    Without Addon 3 With Addon 3
    RaptorEE.zip Raptor30TunedAddon3.zip

    Â

    Tips :

    Â

    below some pics of Realflight®© G2.More info on www.realflight.com , support on www.knifeedge.com