rchelicopter

  • nullCosts

    Can be bought at www.draganfly.com for 80€ + shipping costs.

    Overall view

    The original frame is weak in many places and was designed more for indoor flying. A lot of people work on the Roswell Flyer and they all designed their own frame using carbon pipes. I decided to buy the carbon upgrade frame. As usual, all models: Roswell Flyer (sold out), HMX4 (copy of previous), Dragnaflyer are sharing the same design and are fully compatible. They were all created by the clever Mike Dammar from www.spectrolutions.com

    Assembling

    Content of the upgrade Kit.

    The manual given explain everything and is completed. All screws, heat rubber for isolation, and a small hex key is given. Nice job. The overall frame is light and the wires are hidden in each carbon tube. A spare carbon tube is also in the kit.


    Aerodynamic canopy, very light, the circuit board is
    maintian by the four pylons.

    Maybe the motor mount has a little too much flexion. Let
    see if it survive in a small crash. Note that the pinion is now
    after the motor mount and no more inside the imaginary
    inner circle. It will also be in contact with the ground in case
    of crash.

    Â

    final throughs

    The kit is not overprice and the frame seems to be reliable and light. A must for all old roswell flyer!

    TIPS

    • If you think you can not save the machine (crash) stop immediately the power, it will many times save your blades
  • kyosho_caliber_30

    Upgrades

    Correct Official page in japanese
    with a lot of crazy metal parts, this beautiful metal head cost only 200€
    Quick ukrelease a swashplate and has now a page for the caliber 30:
      Kyosho
    RCmodelsports
      K&S PRODUCTS
    use search engine on the left to locate all Caliber 30 upgrades

     

    Caliber 30 upgrades parts fromCorrect
    courtesy authorization of company Correct
    Please note that I have no connection with the compagny Correct, simply I find their upgrades beautiful and want to
    show them here.
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    approx. 200€
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    approx. 100€
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    approx. 65€
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    approx. 65€
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    approx. 65€
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    016-130.jpg

    approx. 200€
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    016-142_50T_C30.jpg
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    FRPL_.jpg
    FRPL_.jpg
    FRPR.jpg
    FRPR.jpg
     
    Mail of the compagny Correct: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
    Their Homepage: www4.ocn.ne.jp/~correct
     
  • kyosho_caliber_30_00

     

    Type Pictures Note Price and Where
           
    Swashplate Replace the plastic one, wich have a lot of slope (even through if it do not seems to disturb the raptor)

    Allow to have even more pitch. A MUST

    www.quickuk.com

    72€

    Metal Main rotor head hub Less slope with time compare to the plastic one, but it is a really expensive part www.helihut.com

    60$

    Metal blade grip Should supress the woof and poof, the collar have less space to move www.cyberheli.com

    42$

    Wash out   Thunder Tiger

    40£

    Tail pitch control lever   www.helihut.com

    10$

    Pich control arm   30$
    Carbon rod and servo mount for using the JR 5700G + CSM 540 www.quickuk.com

    30€

    Tail Output Shaft + Pulley bought by the previous owner of the raptor www.quickuk.com

    10€

    Raptor 50 tank a MUST for extending flight time, not exepensive upgrade. www.cyberheli.com

    7$

    Tail Drive Belt Guide bought by the previous owner of the raptor www.quickuk.com

    10€

    Tailboom Brace Set bought by the previous owner of the raptor www.quickuk.com

    10€

    OS46 or OS50 motor mount needed to upgrade to raptor 50, bought by the previous owner of the raptor 20€
    Tank Header avoid bubble.

    www.quickuk.com

    20€

    K&S Funtech OS50 One of the best exhaust for the os50 80€
           
           
           
           
           
           
           
           
           
           

    Some remarqs:

    If you compared the price of a raptor metal head and a Futura one, you will see that the price is very close. I was always complaining about the price (it is too expensive) and at the end, i add so much upgrade on my rappy.... I must be crazy !!


    • Swashplate, suppress a lot of slope found in the original one.
    • Metal fan, The Correct do not seem to have a better cooling effect, wait till QuickUk release a better version.
    • Metal clutch bell,
    • ...
    • Other upgrades are not recommended since in case of crash the energy will be release elsewhere, bend metal, stripped gears, break more.

    "Do not make the mistake of buying a cheap 30 size and adding $1000 of upgrades! buy a 60 size helicopter"(Curtis Youngblood). Upgrade page is HERE

  • by Steve SimpsonThis email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

    > Hello, I understand the failsafe issues with the Governor so that you do not blow the engine. But how much of a risk is there to actually have your engine blow up on you.
    In model helicopters, there will always be some load from the fan and factory heli's tend to have somewhat conservative gearing so with a stock motor running low or no nitro as is common in Europe, it would take a pretty unusual set of circumstances to actually 'blow up' and engine.
    In the US is common to have .30 size helis converted to .46 and running high nitro and tunes pipes. In this case your margin of safety gets pretty slim . . .
    . and it doesn't take a lot of coaxing for certain brands to spit rods . . particularly if the carb cannot maintain a rich mixture when the RPM's suddenly go through the roof. Engine damage from over revving is cumulative though. Like smoking cigarettes. You don't have to 'blow up' an engine all at once . . . it can be done over time . . . As with bending a paper clip back and forth . . . you get away with it the first few times.
    There has been a lot of chatter recently about engine damage, but the greater danger is in overspeeding the head itself. Aerodynamics will limit how fast the rotor will turn without engine power because drag increases exponentially as the airflow accelerates the blade, so there is a natural 'air brake' of sorts.
    However, when the rotor is spinning up via aerodynamic power, the engine is free to really give it shove into the 'red' zone. Spitting a rotor blade is a much more serious event than spitting a connecting rod.

    > What other benefits do you reap from installing one into your heli?
    One of the vexing things about model heli's up until recently was attempting to provide for some type of 'synthetic' governing of engine speed. Early on it was with interconnected linkages and later with our friend the 'throttle' curve . .. . no matter how many points there are on a throttle curve, it is still a
    static curve and cannot adapt to the various conflicting conditions found different flight maneuvers. Therefore, throttle 'mixes' are used to attempt to
    give the basic curve some ability to adapt to situations that require more or less power than the basic static curve provides.
    Even with all these tools available, often a mix 'robs Peter to pay Paul' and fixing one situation worsens another. The more power your heli has available and the more . . . 'enthusiastic' your flying style, the worse this situation becomes. While there is always a guru who claims to be able to get 'perfect' engine speed control, the fact is that some situations that cause over revving cannot be resolved by curves and mixes. Since these setting are all static, the only solution is to have multiple flight modes where a different set of settings can be stored. Then you simply switch to that mode when you anticipate the
    situation.
    Are we having fun yet?
    A governor eliminates the need to worry about any of the stuff in this post . .

  • Origine des vibrations sur un hélico rc :
    - basse fréquence -> rotor principal (tracking, balourd)
    - moyenne fréquence -> rotor d'anticouple (transmission, balourd)
    - haute fréquence -> moteur (balourd embrayage, indice thermique de la bougie)
    1. Training gear may be causing vibration, try to reduce their length, or use a hulla up (instead of a X)...
    2. Paddles may be slightly off-set, realign them...
    3. Verify the tension of the tail rotor belt...
    more soon
  • Be careful ! in France you are not allowed to transmit in realtime video from an aircraft !

    You need :

    • Velleman 2.4 GHz wireless surveillance system 1700 Fr

    include a high res color video camera, ability to have 4 different TX, built in microphone, and 300 feet range.

    boite 64 Ko

    • Accus (2 * 9V) 296 Fr
    • 1 voltage regulator : 7812 (12V)+ micro switch 7 Fr
    Rx
     
    rx_front.jpg
    rx_front.jpg
    rx_rear.jpg
    rx_rear.jpg

    Tx

    I remove some part to have less parts....
    tx_front.jpg
    tx_front.jpg
    tx_right.jpg
    tx_right.jpg

    Add a 2.5 jack to plug the battery on a charger.

    Add another switch to cut power

    The Tx now contains 2 9V battery (serial = 18V reduce with a 7812 to 12V)

    • A small TV (LCD) ex 11cm TFT 1000 Fr

    Some Pictures :

    SOON

    Conclusions :

    this is the best system, but the price is expensive. size could be reduce, weight is 215 grams (accu + camera).

  • Be careful ! in France you are not allowed to transmit in realtime video from an aircraft !

    You need:

    • Aurel H2-TV Channel Audio-Video Modulator
      Mod. MAV-VHF224
      225 Fr

      Description :
      Low cost CATV circuit for high quality audio-video signals, operating in the VHF Band. Input signals can be fed from videocameras, tuners, video tape players, etc, directly using the lines of the standardized output connectors (i.e. SCART), while output R.F. can be received with any standard not modified TV receiver. The Modulator is very stable in frequency and features high harmonic rejection.
    Characteristics Min Typ Max Unit
    VS Supply Voltage 4.75 5 5.25 Vdc
    IS Supply Current   90   mA
    PO RF Output power   1   mW
    IM 3rd Order Intermodulation     60 dBm
    FC Carrier Frequency 223.75 224.5 225.25 MHz
    IM Video Input Modulation   1.2   Vpp
    FSC Sub-Carrier Frequency   5.5   MHz
    MA Audio FM Modulation   1   Vpp
    II Input Impedance   100   KW
    TPE Pre-enphasis   50   S
    TOP Operating temperature range -20   +80 °C
    Pin-Out
    1 Ground
    2 Audio Input
    3 Ground
    4 Video Input
    5 Ground
    6 +5V
    7 Ground
    8 RF Output
    • Aurel H2 Channel CATV Amplifier
      Mod. M.C.A. 224
      130 Fr

      Description :
      Linear CATV circuit for high quality audio-video signal amplification, operating on the VHF H2 Channel. RF input signal can be derived from a Audio Video Modulator (best operation is with our mod. MAV-VHF 224). Output can be received with any standard not modified TV receiver.
    Characteristics Min Typ Max Unit
    VS Supply Voltage 11.4 12 12.6 Vdc
    IS Supply Current   100   mA
    FW Working Frequency   224   MHz
    PO RF Output power (2 mW IN)   +19   dBm
    DI Intermodulation distorsion   50 60 dB
    TOP Operating temperature range -20   +80 °C
    Pin-Out
    1 +12v
    2 Enable
    3 Ground
    6 RF Input
    7 Ground
    10 Ground
    13 Ground
    15 RF Output
    • Mini color video cam 890 Fr
    Characteristics
    Video system PAL
    Effective pixel 628*582
    Synchro internal
    Resolution (TV lines) 380
    S/N Ration > 42 dB
    Mill Illumination 3 lux at F1.2
    Electronic shutter 1/50 - 1/150 000
    Video output 1V , 75 Ohms
    Lens 3.6 mm - 5 mm (F 2 -> 4.5)
    Lens Angle 92° -> 65°
    Power current 50 mA
    Power Source DC12V
    Pin-Out
    Red +12v
    Yellow signal
    Black Ground
    • a good and safety box (in case of crash) 18 Fr
    • Accus (2 * 9V), a free rx channel. 296 Fr
    • 2 voltage regulator : 7812 (12V) and 7805 (5V) + 2 * 100 nF 27 Fr
    • A small TV (LCD) ex 11cm TFT 1000 Fr

    Conclusions :

    The result is very bad with no specific antenna, maybe I should replace my 32 cm wire with something better. Distance are bad too and some polarized effect appear when you turned the device : Really BAD !

    Â

    • A première vue voler en hiver ne pose pas de problème, mais...
    • Des que doigts sont gelés, ils perdent leur sensibilité, et vous perder en précision de vol
    • Les accus nicad tiennent bien moins longtemps car la temperature est basse (dans le négatif), au max 2 vols, il faut donc les recharger avant chaque vol pour etre sur.
    • Le moteur ne démarre pas si vous n'installer pas un dispositif de chauffage! c'est souvent un transistor polariser pour chauffer qui est fixé sur le bati du moteur.
    • Tout ces problemes sont relatés dans ce fichier pdf en anglais, trés interessant.
    • Mon point de vue? je ne vole pas en dessous de 10°C
  • Hard task because of the canopy, or space left by the frame

     
    example 1  



  • Parts you can store in case of...

    Main rotor blade grips
    Radio Tray frame.
    Mixing arms (CA3012)
    Main gear 90T but it act as a fuse for the main mast (it was in my first crash)

  • Each week, you can add a drop oil in the red places, switch you helicopter on, and do not forget to move corresponding servo while adding oil.  I'm using stich machine white Vaseline.
  • nullMike Dammar www.spectrolutions.com ou son distributeur www.draganfly.com (Canada) ou Mike Johnson http://www1.minn.net/~mjohnson/ (USA)

    Â


  • USA
    http://www.runryder.com/gallery/19892/

    EUROPE
    http://www.updaterc.com/V2/catalog/index.php?cPath=28_133_138_149
  • Why Model Helicopters are better than women:
    1. Un hélicoptère vous tuera immédiatement, une femme prendra son temps.
    2. Un hélicoptère peut s&39;allumer en poussant un interrupteur.
    3. Un hélicoptère ne devient pas fou si vous
    4. Un hélicoptère supporte une inspection de pré-vol.
    5. Un hélicoptère est livré avec un manuel.
    6. Un hélicoptère respecte des contraintes de poids et d&39;équilibrage stricte.
    7. Vous pouver voler avec votre hélicoptère tous les jours du mois.
    8. Les hélicoptère ne viennent pas avec un contrat
    9.
    10. Peu importe pour un hélicoptère avec combien d&39;autres vous avez déja volé.
    11. Quand vous voler, vous et votre hélicoptère arrivez en même temps.
    12. Un hélicoptère ne vous tient pas rigueur, si vous regarder d&39;autres hélicoptère, ou si vous acheter des magazines spécialisés.
    13. Un hélicoptère est partant si vous utilisez des rilsans.
    1. A helicopter will kill you quickly. ..a woman takes her time.
    2. Helicopters can be turned on by a flick of a switch.
    3. A helicopter does not get mad if you "touch and go".
    4. A helicopter does not object to a preflight inspection.
    5. Helicopters come with manuals.
    6. Helicopters have strict weight and balance limits.
    7. You can fly a helicopter any time of the month.
    8. Helicopters don&39;t come with in-laws.
    9. Helicopters don&39;t whine unless something is really wrong.
    10. Helicopters don&39;t care about how many other helicopters you have flown.
    11. When flying, you and your helicopter both arrive at the same time.
    12. Helicopters don&39;t mind if you look at other helicopters, or if you buy helicopter magazines.
    13. It&39;s OK to use tie-downs on your helicopter.
  • Why using nitro ? (Article from Ian Mc Donald)

    HIGH PERFORMANCE HELICOPTER FUELS Nitromethane: can truly be deemed "Liquid Horsepower" for model helicopters. For additional power and generally smoother running, our flying machines can&39;t really afford to live without it! If the engine performance of your R/C helicopter is proving to be a bit of a problem for a whole tank of fuel, and you suffer from overheating as the tank empties during hover, or the idle is difficult to get "just right", it may be that a dose of good old fashioned "nitro" is what the engine doctor would order. Nitromethane is a liquid that has been around for a long time and is used to contribute towards smoother running and increasing power in varying amounts of many model fuels. In addition to altering the power output of an engine, it also contributes towards cooler, cleaner running, smoother idling, and easier starting. Of course, the positive affects of nitro must be weighed against the cost of the magic liquid, which can add from $2 to $4 per gallon per 5% of nitro. Other than the plain fact that nitro is probably the easiest way to increase the power output, or smoothen the run of a model aircraft engine, the whys and wherefore&39;s of nitro are not well understood by most modelers (or anyone for that matter, based on the trouble I had finding information on the subject) so what follows will attempt to shed light on the mystery and help heli flyers decide whether they need use it, and if so, how much. Nitro is manufactured in production volumes by mixing nitric acid and natural gas (or other hydrocarbon base) under high temperature and pressure. It can be made in the laboratory by some complicated mixing and distilling of acetic acid, sodium carbonate, and sodium nitrate which is rather hazardous. The element that is most important is the oxygen which "disassociates" from the liquid at high temperatures.

    While Methanol has almost the same amount of oxygen (50%) by weight, it is the overall "mix" that contributes to the unique nature of nitro, allowing a much higher fuel flow and the typically inert nitrogen which can serve to "soften" the shock of the combustion process and inhibit pre-ignition (this is not to say using nitro prevents pre-ignition). All fuels, whether gasoline, methanol or nitro (which incidentally can be burnt at 100% mix like most fuels) have a "stoichiometric" (I brought this word in in a wheelbarrow!) or chemically correct air to fuel ratio, at which they theoretically (as calculated by chemists on paper) burn the most efficiently in air. With gasoline it is 14.9:1 (air to fuel) with best power at 12.7 and best fuel consumption at 15-16:1. Gas puts out 2.78 kilo Joules of energy per kg. Stoichiometric methanol burns best at 6.5:1 or twice the liquid (by volume) for the same amount of air as gas and produces 2.67 kJ per kg, slightly less than petrol, but typically produces 10% more power due to the temperature drop of the mixture as it vaporizes, which produces a more dense mixture (higher density = more power). Methanol burns twice as much liquid as gasoline because it carries its own oxygen supply along with it (50% by weight). Methanol can also run 40% rich and still make good power because of this. This excess fuel contributes to cooler operating temperatures. Nitro burns at a big 1.7:1, or 37% liquid, 63% air, or nearly three times as much liquid as methanol. Energy at stoichiometric = 4.05 kJ per kilogram or 1.5 times that of methanol. This is where the effects of nitro become important. Getting fuel into an engine is never a problem. The problem with producing power from a given engine is getting the air in! Hence, the use of superchargers, turbochargers, special manifolding, porting and valving arrangements on modern car engines. With model engines in general, we don&39;t have the luxury of supercharges, etc. (the 0S 120 Supercharged four stroke being the exception). So Nitromethane actually provides "chemical" supercharging, introducing up to 3.8 times more liquid overall or 5.5 times more oxygen per liter at 100% "stoichiometric" mix, meaning more fuel (methanol) can be burnt, because of all the extra oxygen (the oxidizing agent). For example, a methanol only mix provides 400 grams / liter of oxygen (gasoline has zero oxygen). At 20% nitro, there is 3.14 kJ/kg of energy and 436 g/l of oxygen, and because at 20% nitro the correct mixture or air / fuel ratio is about 4.2:1, a 35% increase in fuel flow will occur, which means around 47% more oxygen ends up in the engine when tuned correctly. I know this sounds complicated, but I did check my math repeatedly, and it all makes sense if you remember that we are talking about quantities here in two different situations: specific quantities per liter and quantities per liter at the "stoichiometric" mixture fuel flow! This increase in oxygen availability and fuel flow amounts to richer running. For example, the main needle has to be opened further to flow the correct amount of liquid to match the incoming air (which is pretty constant at any given throttle opening / rpm level). This also means that the tank may last up to 35% less than with straight methanol fuel. If you get 20 minutes with "straight" fuel, 20% nitro could only last 15 or so minutes. (In practice this is not a linear relationship. With more nitro, typically a smaller throttle opening is needed for the same amount of power, i.e. at hover. So it&39;s generally more than 15 minutes mentioned here but less than the original 20 minutes.) With all this extra oxygen and fuel going into the engine, more power is available, as mentioned before, up to 50% at 80% nitro has been measured. So for every 5% nitro, a power increase of about 3-4% might occur if everything is adjusted correctly. Of course 3% is not much, but at 30% nitro which is common in the USA and Japan in choppers 15% to 20% power increases are easily within reach. More power equals a higher combustion pressure which equals more heat! Cooling: Of course with 42% more liquid going through the engine at 30% nitro much more heat can be soaked up - liquid absorbs heat much better than air. There is also 42% more oil going into the engine, almost flushing the internals continuously, which also helps take out more heat. So we have internal liquid cooling! All this extra liquid keeps the metal surface temperatures down and eliminates the burning of oil to carbon. So there are usually little or no carbon deposits in nitro fueled engines above 10% nitro. The cooling effect of nitro is further born out by the increased usage of high nitro fuels in fuselaged models which are almost totally enclosed for drag minimization. The nitro is used just as much for cooling as it is for good power! Nitro won&39;t necessarily work the same wonders in engines from different manufacturers.

    Typically the Japanese have been heavy nitro "users" and produce engines which work well on high nitro and have relatively low compression ratios. In contrast, the European manufacturers, with nitro being more expensive and hard to get in Europe (not that it is all that cheap in Japan), appear to have engineered their engines with higher compression ratios for little or no nitro usage. It is not unusual to have to "decompress" European engines for satisfactory high nitro operation. Nitro may not tune the same on different engine types, even from the same manufacturer, because the combustion process in a glow engine is triggered by a catalytic reaction of the compressed mixture with the platinum compound of the glow plug. Many different factors affect the "timing" of the ignition of the fuel / air mix (i.e. fuel quality and mixture setting, ambient air temperature, engine temperature, fuel temperature actual compression ratio, inlet & exhaust timing, muffler/type, etc.). This is in contrast to a gasoline spark engine where the ignition timing is influenced predominantly by the spark timing, which can always be optimized for best engine running at any rpm. Further, the tuning with nitro can also be affected by the ability of the carburetor to deliver the fuel in sufficient quantity/accuracy thru various speed ranges. On some engines, the engine may not run well in hover above, say 12% nitro, but merely changing to a different carb, with better mid range flow adjustability may fix the problem. Also, too high a compression ratio with too much nitro may have combustion on the edge of pre-ignition , and cause unreliable running and may be difficult to tune. Decreasing nitro content or decreasing compression ratios may very well cure the problem, as trying glow plugs with different heat ranges. Hooked on Nitro: Many people will have heard that some engines are "hooked" on nitro, i.e. on nitro they run great, straight fuel they run like a dog, or have less power. While not necessarily "hooked" on nitro, they are used to running at a particular temperature, and all the clearances (especially piston to bore clearance in an ABC engine) in the engine are run in at that temperature. Changing the nitro content changes the operating temperature and you have a different engine on your hands. While researching this article it became evident that information on nitro is very scarce. So if anyone out there has more information or would like to comment on or "discuss" any part of this article, please let me know c/o Rotory or at my CompuServe address: 100240,2265. IAN McDONALD

    Â

  • <>
    - Check if the paddles are not quite aligned, replaced the short grub screw in the paddles with a long one like in the raptor 30.
    - Check the main rotor mast if it is not bend...
    - (MMS mode) Wobble (for/aft) when in forward flight with low head speeds (below 1700) Try the frame bracing mod and run the engine with heat at 1850 head speed.
    - Check Michael Prewitt homepage : www.raptortechnique.com this problem has created a lot of threads with the raptor 30, there is a lot of chance, since raptor and caliber share more or less the same design (2 seesaw rubber and free spindle shaft), that you can cure the wobble with the same tricks. (Some report that lubrification can help, and so on). if nothing simple cured your problem, try to flip the head.
  • full of $300 of metal upgrades I paid 200€ thanks to the exchange rates, more pics soon as I will be mounting this baby during the week end....

    A lot of beautiful pictures can be found on the manufacturer homepage:www.microheli.com