rchelicopter

  • picture below taken from the simulator Reflex XTR

    John V. and Vincent C. release their famous Raptor 90 for XTR: 400 hours of work, 3Gb of data, is a lot of effort but thier model is truly beautiful, especially if You have this baby Raptor at home.

    Go to their homepage to see more picture and download free of charge their model. If You like their work, feel free to use the donate button

  • RCFS, a free open source simulatorunder BSD licence now at sourceforge.net
    Features

    • High quality graphics
    • Runs on older machines with reduced graphics quality
    • Interfaces with either your regular TX or a gamecontroller
    • Cross-platform. Works on Mac OS X and Windows as well as other *NIX platforms
  • If You are seaching new models for Your RC simulator Reflex XTR (next to reality) and for FREE, You may want to visit RC-SIM.de The list of free download is increasing and You may find there what You are searching for. (and also for Aerofly Pro, Realflight G2/G3). Currently, there is:

    • 140 helicopters: electrical, glow powered, replica...
    • 49 scenary: outdoor, indoor...
    • 209 airplanes for all of You which also fly airplanes ;-)
    • 69 recordings/videos to improve your flying skills...
    • ...

    All of them can be download for free... Enjoy

  • A lot of people do not know that I've made the translation of REFLEX XTR to french and RMK from german to english/french (Now You know why translation are horrible, a froggy should not be allowed to speak english ;-) ). A lot of people are complaining because not all manuals are translated yet. 120 pages is a little bit too much for me. That's why I have set a:
    REFLEX XTR manual translation community !!!!!
    This site is not endorsed in any way by the builder of REFLEX XTR (www.reflex-sim.de and Wolfgang, author of REFLEX XTR)
    A WIKI has been created in order to translate REFLEX XTR from english to french AND REFLEX RMK from german to french and english.
    REFLEX XTR Wiki is HERE
    You can freely submit, every help is appreciated.... all work will remain into the FDL licence.
    Contact me, for insults or whatever.

    French text follow:
    Bonjour a toute les gens de bonnes volontés!!!
    Comme la documentation de REFLEX XTR n'existe pas en francais ni en anglais, et comme je n'ai pas le temps de traduire seul le manuel de 120 pages, je vous propose de le traduire en communaute!!!
    Un wiki?
    j ai installe mediawiki sur mon site, c'est le systeme qu'utilise wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Main_Page qui a lui plus d'un million d articles...
    A vous de lire les restrictions de wikipedia ICI sur le site français, je suit les mêmes, on fait cela pour la beauté de l'art, les textes traduits ou contributions personnelles seront en licence FDL!!
    Le lien vers le wiki de REFLEX XTR est ICI
    Si tous le monde s'y met en quelque semaines/mois, on peut avoir la doc de REFLEX XTR en francais et anglais....  Si vous n êtes pas fort en allemand/anglais, il y a un paquet de copie d'écran à reproduire du manuel.... faites de la pub autour de vous c'est aussi nous aider!!! Mais garder un esprit sain, c'est pour la communaute d 'utilisateur de REFLEX pas pour moi que je l'ai fait. Bon courage

  • <>
    Originally found by Jason (www.jason.net). Cut in an aluminium can, two shim for removing slope of the sliding tray.
    Originally found by Jason (all credit to Him : www.jason.net).
    Cut in an aluminium can, two shim for removing slope of the
    sliding tray and insert them in the red place in pic.

  • broke after a crash, main mast is not bent, but energy release through the frame
    . I do not want to disassemble the whole frame but fix it instead.


  • <>
    you can use this technique on all NON MOVING plastic parts, It is even better if you use clothes wires and glue them with CA (as best as carbon fibers)
     
       
  •  bonjour!
    j'habite en nouvelle caledonie, dans le pacifique sud, j'ai achete un "cerveau central " de draganflyer sans rien autour (excepte des rotors en piteux etat ),
    et ai envie bien sur de monter le bidule.....(un vieux reve) avant d'aller plus loin, je pilote des avions rc depuis 22 ans maintenant, et des helis depuis 10 ans( concept 46 vr full zeal et vigor cs avec un ys 80
    )...........je ne suis donc pas un total debutant.....

    En fait le draganflyer est vraiment très facile a piloter et très stable en vol. Les seules précautions à prendre:

    • BIEN marquer le rotor avant d'une autre couleur afin d'éviter les pertes d'orientation, car l'appareil qui se pilote comme est hélico est symétrique, et il est donc facile de se tromper au manches.
    • Ne pas voler lorqu'il fait chaud ou en plein soleil direct, car les gyroscopes (tout du moins sur la 1ere version que j'ai, ont tendances à dériver.....)
    • Faire attention aux murs et obstacles: il faut cabrer la bête pour la stopper net :-)

    donc, au niveau des rotors, je pense en mouler en carbon sur la base des originaux que j'ai eu en mauvais etat..........mais ca sera easy a mouler donc pas de pb.....

    Si on a de l'expérience avec le moulage, c'est tout à fait possible. Attention si en vol on sent que la gammelle n'est pas très loin...couper les gazs, cela limitera les dégats. Les pales d'origines, explosent et sous certaines conditions, peuvent se réparer à la cyanocrilate (Colle instantanée).

    par contre c'est au niveau des moteurs que j'aurai besoin de tes lumieres, d'apres ce que j'ai vu, le "gearing" est approximativement 1/5 et des
    poussieres, ca correspond donc par exemple a des systemes de propulsion "eps350" ou "eps300" de chez GWS avec le gearing "C" le pb vient des moteurs en fait !va jeter un oeil chez "aircraft world " :
    http://www.aircraft-world.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=13&cat=motors+%2D+280%2D300 

    les rapports d'engrenages (gearing) sont les suivants:

    • Pinion moteur: 10 dents.
    • Engrenages: 56 dents.

    Quels sont les moteurs employes a l'origine?

    Les moins cher qui existent....des Mabuchi S0, à savoir des speeds 280

    combien l'electronique peut supporter, j'ai peur en fait de griller la platine...a ma place que ferais tu?

    D'après Mike Dammar, le concepteur avec qui j'ai échangé pas mal de mails en 2002, Il est possible d'utiliser la même platine (Draganflyer) pour le draganflyer XP pour peu que l'on ajoute des dissipateur. Les Transistors d'origines IRLZ44N sont donnés à 55V, Rds(on)=0.022ohm, Id=47A donc il y a de la marge.

    ensuite en ce qui concerne la connectique, je n'ai pas le "harness" qui permet le cablage, connais tu une alternative ? un plan de cablage ? des dimensions exactes? du centre du cerveau au centre du rotor : combien de cm ?
    tous les conseils sont les bienvenus....

    Le frame de remplacement carbone, est vraiment bien fait, il m'a couté $80, les dimensions du frame de la version 4: distance de l'axe d'un moteur au centre de la platine électronique: 20cm. Je peut mettre plus de photos de mon roswell en ligne si des détails t'interessent.

    et au fait, comment ca vole?on peut faire quoi avec ce machin? merci par avance !

    Cela vole dans un mouchoir de poche, a haute altitude, il est possible de faire un looping, c'est un engin un peu bruyant, du fait des engrenages...Il faut absolument utiliser des accus Li-ion sinon la durée de vol est décevante: 4 minutes maximum. voire l'artcile sur ce site sur l'utilisation de Li-ion.

    j'attends de tes nouvelles des que possible..c'est tellement rare de trouver des personnes parlant francais ayant cet engin!

    Je vais essayer d'étendre cette page, pour répondre au maximum de question que les futurs acquéreurs/bricoleurs se posent...Si vous avez un problème, utiliser le menu sous "Contact me" pour me joindre


  • Something Hit the vertical tail fins during a hard landing (nose in and backward, I was in panic mode)
    The tail blade hit the vertical fins! making a big noise. I stop everything to check was going on
    A: hit the ground
    B: hit the vertical fins
    Decide to replace it with a raptor 30 bin, white, bigger and stronger
    Draw a line and cut with any tool you add, be careful not to cut yourself in the finger.
    You must adapt, in order to fix it into the tail case of the caliber
    Conclusions:
    • Heavier, will help some unbalanced heli to add weight in the tail,
    • White: better visibility
    • Stronger and not so flexible, althrough, I recommend you to use te raptor 60 fins instead
      or the new V2 fins which are even tougher.


  • kyosho_caliber_30

    -> printer friendly format <- -> Contact me, all acomments are welcomed <-

    Kyosho Caliber 30, an in-depth Review

    A friend of mine buy especially the caliber 30 for shaking it, doing hard 3D, and to avoid any regret in case of crash (he currently own 2 futura se, long ranger, airwolf, raptor 30, shuttle etc). 2 weeks after that I buy mine on ebay germany (new motor never run, kit not built). This review is based on his comments and mine (as today 23.06.2002 I only break in the motor (35°C) but I noticed a lot of bads things which are not written in french magazines). Overall it is a great machine.

    Specifications
    Length: 1095mm
    Height: 408mm
    Width: 190mm
    Weight: 2900g
    Gear ratio: 9.615 to 1 to 5.0
    Main rotor: 1230mm
    Tail rotor: 240mm
    Engine: 30 size
    Tank capacity: 340cc

     

    Bads  
     
    • The swashplate is taking a lot of slope, after only 10 flights (I must admit with hard 3D), -> I replace it with the "Correct" metal upgrade
    • If you want power for hard 3D, you NEED to invest in 15% nitromethan, but that is common by 30''size.
    • The paddles are moving and sliping (they are in 2 parts, sometimes they slipe 2 or 3mm after a flight!!!!!!) -> I replace them with raptor 30 paddles
    • The landing skids is too small (could be larger for a newbie) and made in a hard plastic, that can easily break in case of a loose crash, -> I replace it with Raptor 30 landing skids after my first crash.
    • Tailboom supports are too small and their angle is below 30°, should not be larger in order to improve the tighteness of boom ? You can replace them with raptor 30 or use longer one.
    • Canopy is...... you know...ugly...moreover you have no access to the motor (who made the design of this !!!), 4 easily to loose screw are use to maintain it in position -> I replace mine with the raptor canopy (one of the cheapest canopy 9$) or you can cut the original one. It has no screen windows......
    • All plastic are very very cheap, washout arms can be bend with the finger, the same for the arm on the carburator, screws can only be tightened twice, no more then it becomes loose inside the plasti frame....
    • The height of the tail belt is ridiculous (4mm height), 43% smaller than the raptor 30 (7mm height), I hope that Kyosho test them enough,
    • Blades grips are so thin and flat, that they make me scared... a friend say that they should support the load...
    • The main mast is going through the whole mechanics (very long 260 mm ! and rotor is above canopy 150 mm above frame !), should not be so easy to replace it and what is it's price ?
    • Ridiculous swashplate in 3 parts ! with 3 philips screws below and 4 in upper side! R I D I C U L O U S ! this is the weak of this helicopter.
      Ridiculous swashplate...
    • 90° control is really cheap (all servos (3) are moving in the tray guided by 4 bearings, a lot of lateral slope), I prefer 120° CCPM.
    • Philips screws everywhere in the frame....no comment
    • One of the strongest screws loctite was used....prepare you to have a lot of fun if you want to remove screws..
    • Very small plattform for the gyro, (for the CSM 540, I cut one of the arms see pictures), under the canopy, and in front of the heli is it not the place where amplitude of vibrations are the worse ???
    • Very few room space left for the gyro ! the CSM540 can not be used with the standard canopy (see this page http://pages.infinit.net/heliweb/ )! It work only with the Raptor30 canopy.
    • Only battery AAA can be used, 1100 mAh (I use 1700mAh but not mounted in line see pictures), a CCPM system is draining more, so why allowing so less space for battery ???
    • So much slope everywhere (here and here and here) that you do not need exponential settings...
    • 2 screws are missing... hole are prepared but empty : one in the tail rotor hub, the other in the metal pignon beside the main spur gear.
    • Plastic clutch bell standard....(but there is already an metal upgrade....)
    • Bad position of power switch, below the radio tray far away inside the canopy.
    • Paddles are made of 2 parts, this increase drag since the are not glue together and may cause flutter during 3D
      -> replacing them with raptor 30 paddles supress flutter.
    • Frame is very light, can easily break and won't survive so many times like the raptor 30 one.

    Very nice engineering !

    • Fan quality is bad and inefficient. Need to be replaced (Correct or quickUk?), some people encountered overheating.
    • The MMS mode has to much slope, the idea is nice but the realisation is bad (4 pinion sliding in a plastic tray),
      some people (Jason www.jason.net was the first) already made 2 shim with a coca cola metal can to remove lateral slope of the sliding tray..
    • The starter coupler CA3018 is made of a very soft metal, and will need to be replace very quickly (before it get round shape and disallow to start the engine). You can use the correct aftermarket fan from correct or quickuk (if they release one).
    • The cyclic power is good but with the main shaft so long there is a lot of mas to rotate around the disk so roll/flip rate is about the same or a little better than a stock rappy 30 with similar head speed.
    • Canopy weighs also 8.4 oz (too heavy for a 30)
    • The radio tray is flexing so much that it affect the pitch, really bad.
       
    Goods  
     

      

    • The machine is light, even as light as my electric helicopter, (eRaptor 2.9 kg.)

    • The design of head is directly taken from the caliber 60 (not in metal and with a lot of simplifications but it is a clever design),
    • All upgrades parts from the M50 and caliber 60 can be used, (is it a strategy from kyosho????)
    • In flights, noise is grandly reduce due to the 2 stages belt system,
    • The tail head is herited from a 60'' size,
    • Main blades from the raptor 30 can be reuse (4mm nut bolt).
    • The tank is really big for a 30''size, fuel level is visible at 10 meters (color is neon blue).
    • The radio installation is very clean, all cables can be hidden in the radio tray.
    • Sold with an OS32sxh and not a TT36 (which sometimes sucks!),
    • Muffler is quite good for a stock one (the one with the raptor sucks!), tips you can drill 4 holes (4 mm) to increase power.
    • Both an Electrical Mixing System (EMS in fact CCPM 120°) and a Mechanical Mixing System (MMS) are standard.
    • Basic configuration in 30 minutes not more : a record. In fact you need time to mount servo, fix them etc... This is mainly due to the manual which tell you all settings, only ATV is missing (normal it is dependant on servo and TX pulse),
    • Very long main mast, allow mass to be far below rotor, increase stability.
    • Tail servo is mounted directly on tail boom as standard, easy maintenance and removal without losing trim settings.
    • I never see a control system which slide so easily right out of the box. (even on high end machine).
    • Less parts, less problem, the frame and overall design is clear and nice.
    • Final assembly is simple and straightforward, linkages are easy to adjust.
    • Large cooling fan allows for use of both low nitro and low oil fuels (as used in Europe).
    • 10mm main shaft and 6mm spindle shaft (not new ! same on Raptor 30).
    • Motor mount in metal stiffen the frame and act like a radiator.
    • Revolutionnary linkage, at the correct size right out of the box.
    • Very nice manual, but I would like to see it only english and not with some cyptic japanese (sorry but that is really disturbing when you can not read it)
    • Tail rotor has great authority - fast pirouette rate, stops on dime.
    • 47 pinions in the mechanic as standard.
       

     

     

     

    The .32 SX-H engine

    The .32 SX-H engine comes equipped with a heavy-duty crankcase, heat sink head, conrod and crankpin, plus a dual-needle Type 20C carb, larger front bearing and a rear bearing with nylon retainer.

    Specifications:
    Displacement: 5.22cc
    Bore: 19.56mm
    Stroke: 17.53mm
    Practical rpm: 2,000-22,000
    Output: 1.2 bhp @ 18,000 rpm
    Weight: 289g

     

    Conclusion

    • YES the caliber 30 offer a level of functionnality and capacity not ever seen in a 30''size for that price, but what is the reliability ?, how long performances stay at this level right out of the box ? So much parts are cheap.... I am not dummy, I understand that is was to reduce the price, but is it not to sell more upgrades parts ??? only times and a full season of flight can tell us the truth...
    • It perform well on 3D, but we have some flutter now and we are trying to fix this. Our attack plan (we already reduce head speed and notice no improvements): changing paddles, changing swashplate, tighten the control system.
    • As a conclusion, wait some months before buying a caliber 30 (especially if you already have a 30''size otherwise you can go and buy a caliber), price will go down and a lot of people will have more experience.
    • I fly the caliber since 3 months now and really love it, no or less maintenance, long flight time and reduce noise.... I bought a second one !
    • I bought yesterday my second caliber 30 and I love it ! I will never bought a raptor 30 anymore, on 3 raptor : 2 glow develop the woof and poof, only the eRaptor was flying without problems. If you still want to buy a Raptor go for the v2 not the old one.
    • Be careful, a lot of parts need to be replace in order to maintain the performance at it's level. see the review
    • Replacement parts are sometimes 2 times more expensive than raptor 30. I hope it is because this machine is new...
    • Kit price with engine in France :463€/405$ without engine 320€
    • What 30''size to buy for a beginner ? caliber 30 (very new 2002)<- raptor 30 v2 (since 4 years out 1998)<- nexus 30 (production discontinued, so kit, parts are really cheap, good for starting)
    • Click here to jump to the caliber 30 gallery section
    • Realflight addon4 has a caliber 30 available:
    • Reflex 4.0 has also the most realistic caliber 30 free of charge.

    Lets have a look at metal upgrade parts prices from the company Correct,

    Arms, flybar control 30$/34,3€
    Arms, mixing 25$/28,6€
    Brake, main rotor 6$/6.9€
    Swashplate 60$/68€
    Clutch bell w/pinion 25$/28,6€
    Fan 25$/28,6€
    Grips, tail rotor blades 25$/28,6€

    Click here to jump to the upgrade section

  • kyosho_caliber_30

    www.caliber30.com Portal for the Caliber 30.

    Reviews

    http://users.pandora.be/subseven1/ the first person in Europe who buy a Caliber 30 months before it arrives. A lot of close pictures.
    www.jason.net The first review ever done, complet with a lot of pictures and upgrades ! a MUST
    http://www.littlerotors.com/articles/caliber30-010202/index.asp by Aaron Williams
    http://www.heliproz.com/caliber30.html by Heliproz.
    http://www.hobbytown.com/custompages/?id=4909 by Hobbytown
    Model Heli World PDF 400kB

    http://planetrc.free.fr/helicos/caliber30/caliber30.htm a french review
    http://helico.toutlemodelisme.com/tests/caliber30/page1.htm David Dutrieux on this page has more than 350 flights without problems
    RCM June 2002 No 264 by Laurent Lombard

    Tips
    http://www.cjwoods.com/Caliber_30.htm Clive's Wood page
    http://www.upd-ate.com/bibliotheques/helicos/caliber30.htm (FR)
    http://pages.infinit.net/heliweb/ some pictures in flight of the caliber, This guy should really secure his RX plugs....frightenning

    Others
    http://beam.to/caliber (caliber 60 the expensive father)
    http://www.valiantakitas.com/hobby/caliber.html
    http://heliprodigy.homestead.com/heliprodigy.html by Steve_JR from Runryder

    Homepage

    http://www.lovaas.org/heli/ Velkommen til Wobble RC Helikopter Klubb!

    http://uscaero77.free.fr/_helico/caliber30/ Le Caliber 30 de Patrick Magnaudet - US.Champagne/s seine Aéromodélisme

    Gallery
    people having caliber 30 and a good gallery

    You want to have your adress listed here? use contact me..

  • Roswell Flyer Manual
    The following instructions are meant to guide you through the use and assembly of the alien technology known as the Roswell Flyer. Your attention to detail and safety precautions is mandatory. As we can not be there to help and guide you, these instructions must bridge that gap from what sits in front of you, a box of parts, and the final product, - radio controlled, silicon based flying device.

    Neatness and accuracy count. You can build the Roswell Flyer in record time and be the first on your block to defy gravity, or, you can take your time, do a good job, and still be the first on the block to defy the elements. The difference is, you will get much better results from the second option.

    Flight time is based on many things, how well the gears mesh together, how well you have sanded the rotor blades to a perfect flying will-, and how accurately you follow all these instructions 3o please pay close attention to these assembly instructions and do a good job. There is a test later, its called first flight.

    We are counting on you!
    WARNING STATEMENT
    The Roswell Flyer is the most exciting R/C product you will own, it is however not a toy. The Roswell Flyer is a very sophisticated flying device that can cause harm to children if not properly attended to. It can cause damage to your personal property if not flown in the appropriate flying area, and of course it can cause you harm if you operate the F;yer in a improper manner.

    The Roswell Flyer is run by electric power, while ;seing environmentally safe, the power source is used up -with each flight, as the power decreases, the Flyer is less responsive. Take care to learn the characteristics of the Flyer so that you can be in control of the situation and not the other way around.

    AFOT does not accept any responsibility for any damages to humans, pets or personal property due to your use or misuse of this product.
    Packing List:
    Qty Description


    1 Black Composite Frame top 1 Black Composite Round Frame Bottom 4 Black Composite Frame arms 4 Black Composite Motor Mount Braces 4 Plywood motor mounts 4 Aluminum rotor shafts 4 Black Main Gears 4 Aluminum main rotor shafts 4 1/8 inch main rotor retaining clips 8 1/8 id 1/4 OD flanged main rotor bearings 8 3mm X 5mm metal motor mount screws 8 4-40 X 1/2 nylon rotor mounting screws 8 4-40 nylon hex nuts 8 1/4 inch threaded nylon rotor spacers 4 Electric motors with pinion gear installed 4 ft Red and Black motor wire 4 Motor noise filter capacitors 2 Clockwise turning main rotors 2 Counter clockwise turning main rotors 1 Main control circuit board 1 Wire antenna 1 Charge Adapter cable 1 8 Cell 600 Mha battery pack 1 square of double sided tape 1 set of Velcro tape 1 Clear plastic packing tray ( has dome and motor covers molded into it)

    Note: Some additional screws and retainers may be included as extras, just in case....

    Additional items required: 4 Channel radio Transmitter and receiver 5 Minute Epoxy wire cutters and strippers needle nose pliers Small soldering pencil and solder 100 grit sandpaper 400 grit sandpaper

    A special note, TAKE YOUR TIME, dont hurry, we know you want to get in the air quickly but take your time, and make sure that you check things twice before gluing once. Accuracy is important, so TAKE YOUR TIME.
    1. For all four main gears, press two flange bearings into the 1/4 inch hole in the center of the gear, one on top, and one on the bottom. The easiest way to do this is to lay a bearing on the table, flange side down, then hold the ,ear over the bearing, line up the hole with the bearing, and press the gear into the bearing using the palm of your hand. Il may be necessary to deburr the inside edge of the hole in the gear with a small knife. One of these will be used in the following steps to check the alignment of the rotor shaft.

    For P-11 four arms, check-fit motor mount brace on end of arrn. If necessary, trim top edge of key on end of arm so that top of brace is flush with top edge of arm. Epoxy in place and let cure. When the Epoxy has cured, double check that the top of the motor mount brace is flush with top edge of arm, if not Band flush.

    3. For all four arms, check fit rotor shaft in hole on arm. Apply Epoxy adhesive to rotor shaft about 1 /4 inch below the shoulder clown to about 1/4 inch from bottom of shaft. Push rotor shaft up into hole in end of arm from the bottom. This prevents Epoxy buildup around the top edge. Check to make sure all rotors are square to the top edge of the arm, and that they are all the same. Use one of the gears from step 1 to check the alignment of the shaft by slidi-ng the gear onto the shaft and making sure that the bottom of the gear is parallel with the top edge of the frame. Be very careful not to get any epoxy on the gear or in the bearings. Let Epoxy cure.

    For ail four arms, check-St plywood motor mounts on rotor shafts. If any are too tight to easily push clown, enlarge hole in plywood with drill. Apply epoxy to top edge of arm and motor mount brace, making sure epoxy touches the edges of the laminate for strength. Push plywood motor mounts down onto rotor shaft and make sure they are square to rotor shaft. Allow epoxy to cure.

    5. Each motor must have a length of Black and Red wire. Make four sets of 12.5 inch lengths of red and black wire. Holding one red and one black wire at the saure time, push the pair through the foam of the frame, between the laminates, and into the first small lightening hole at the top of the arm. Using needle nose pliers, grab the pair of wires and continue to thread them through the foam into the center of each subsequent lightening hole. If you do not wish to put the wire through the frame you can simply tape it to the bottom of the frame as shown in the photo.
    When the outboard hole is reached, pull an extra three inches of wire through.

    6. Important! The top of the frame (smaller disk with little arms) has a top and a bottom. Mounting it incorectly will make it impossible to mount the controller board. I: you hold the top such that the 1/2 inch wide notch is to the right, and towards you, then the rectangular hole will be directly beyond the notch. Check-fit all four arms into the frame top and bottom. When satisfied of fit, epoxy in place. Make sure to apply epoxy to all matting surfaces. The frame should hold itself together if set on a flat surface, however if it tends to pull apart, use some tape to hold in together until the epoxy cures.

    7. Strip 3/16 inch insulation from both ends of thje 4 red and black wires that you created, LATER you will solder these to the motors and circuit board.

    8. You are now going to cut pieces (as shown in the photo to the right) of double sided foam tape to the approximate size as shown. Remove ONE side of the paper from the tape and place them on the top piece of the frame. ( shown to the right) You most likely know that you do not want to touch the tape with your fingers as they will lessen the stickiness of the tape. Take your time.

    9. Locate the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) over the top of the center of the frame such that the battery connector is oriented over the clearance.notch in the frame ring. Insert the 4 servo connectors through the rectangular hole.

    10. Note that the PCB has 8 holes around it&39;s perimeter, 4 labeled black, and 4 labeled red. Feed the red and black wires [rom each arm up through the lightening holes just or, Either side of their respective arms so that the wire colors will match up with the indicated labels on the circuit board..

    11. Insert all 8 wires up through the PCB and solder them on the top side. Trim any excess wire with wire cutters.

    CAUTION, be careful with the soldering iron the frame of the Roswell Flyer is very easy to (lamage with the soldering iron, again Take your lime.

    12. Remove paper covering from double sided tape already installed on top of frame and secure the PCB onto the tape. Make sure to pull the wires down through the holes so that they do not get pinched under the PCB.

    13. For each arm, pull the Black out of the wires, but do not make them tight. Set this assembly aside for now.

    14. For all four main gears, install two 1/2 inch nylon screws through the two opposing small holes in the web of the gear such that the threaded end is on the same side of the gear as the gear hub. Thread a 1/4 inch nylon spacer onto each screw and tighten snugly. Do not over-tighten. Finger tight is good, dont use pliers or other devices that might damage the plastic sleeves or bolts.

    Important! Failure to bevel the edges of the blades will
    result in the aircraft having significantly reduced flying
    tune, and reduced performance. Do not skip these steps,
    even if you think you can Jet away with it.
    15. For all four rotors, using 100 gril sandpaper or file, bevel the top of the leading edge of each blade. The bevel should be about 1/8 inch wide and the leading edge should taper to about I/10 the thickness of the blade.

    16. For all four rotors, smooth out the marks from the 100 grit paper and round of the bevel a bit. Also sand the perimeter of the Made to remove any burrs and slight round the edges of the trailing edge.
    Make sure you prep and Band these edges of the rotor blades, failure to do so WILL affect the performance of the Flyer.

    17. Install all four main gears onto the rotor shafts with the
    nylon screws pointing up, this should also make all the gear
    hubs face up.

    18. Make sure each 0gear spins very easily. If you give the
    gear a spin, it should continue to spin for at least 10 seconds
    thereafter. If one of them does not, check to make sure that
    the bearings are fully seated in the gear hubs, and that no

    19. Install a I/8 inch retaining clip on the top of each rotor shaft. This is most easily done by laying the ring on the end of the shaft with half of the ring hanging a bit down the shaft. Using your linger, press down on the end of the shaft, and work the test of the ring onto the shaft, then usina needle nose pliers, carefully push the retaining ring down the rotor shaft until it seats in the groove.

    Caution, these little clips are an alien life form all unto
    Themselves, they fly off into the carpet, under doors and
    generally just get lost if you dont take your lime. WE
    have included sonie extras, you won&39;t need them ho wever
    if you work slowly and get the hang of f it. The first one
    you do is a bit tricky but once you get the hang of it, the
    rest will be easy to do.

    20. Install all four motors on the bottom side of the plywood motor mounts using two 3 mm X5 mm machine screws. The gears on the motor ends fit up through the elongated center hole in the mount, and engage with the main gear. Make sure that there is a small amount of slop in the gear mesh, about the thickness of a sheet of paper. Tighten the mounting screws being careful not to crush the plywood.
    21. Now let&39;s attach the wires to the motor. On each motor there is a red dot, indicating where the red wire should be soldered, the black wire goes to the other motor lug. Also for each motor, install a noise filter capacitor across the two terminals of each motor.
    Install the green capacitor across the motor leads, it has been omitted here for clarity. It is also a good idea to slip a bit of heat shrink tubing or tape onto the capacitor leads so that if they gent bent they will not short the motor.
    22. Charge the supplied battery with a correct charger, be sure not to over-charge. Charging batteries is almost an artform, we suggest that you review your charger specs and read again the best way to charge Ni-Cad batteries. We have used various charges and this battery pack will charge with a normal charger in about 25 minutes. Let the battery charge until you can hold it in your hand and feel that the battery is slightly warm, or use a charger that measures the peak of the battery. This is, of course, the best way and the most expensive.  
    23. Connect a four channel RC receiver to the PCB usine the four provided connectors. Use the following color codes to make sure the correct plugs are installed.

    Yellow/Red/Black Throttle (Futaba Channel 6)

    Blue wire Elevator (Futaba Channel 2)
    Green wire Aileron (Futaba Channel 1)
    Yellow wire Rudder (Futaba Channel 4)

    23a Attach receiver to underside of PCB usine two layers of
    double sided foam tape. You can follow the procedures in
    the step 23 b if you want to use built in stubby antenna or do
    the following:
    Ri-in antenna wire around frame through Lightening,
    holes, or use a commercially available short antenna that is
    glued to the frame. We recommend that the antenna point
    up and to the rear for orientation reasons


    NOTE: usine built in antenna:
    Warning! The following steps require you to cut the an-
    tenna wire on your receiver. This will most likely void the
    warranty on the receiver, so make sure that you want to do
    this.


    23b Solder the 7 inch long piece of music wire into the hole
    on the PCB near the round black cylinder. At about 1/2
    inch above the PCB, bend the wire over towards the center
    of th_- PCB. Now where the antenna crosses t the cc-ILcr Une
    of thé dise, bend it so as to align with the rear arm. Cut the
    receiver antenna wire long enough to reach the hole marked
    "Ant" on the PCB, from the bottom, with about 1/2 inch of -
    slack. Strip about 1/4 inch of insulation from the end of the
    wire, and push it up through the frame, and into the hole
    marked "Ant" on the PCB and solder in place.



    WARNING!
    Alake sure none of the rotor blades are attached
    for the following steps. Failure to follow this in-
    struction could result in damage to the aircraft or
    injury to you!
    24. The purpose of these steps is to make sure the transmuter is properly set up. Set the transmitter throttle stick to ils mid point and turn on the transmuter. Make sure the power switch on the Circuit board is turned OFF, then connect the battery to the Circuit board

    25. Set the Flyer on a flat, open surface, (the floor is good) making sure that nothing can catch in the gears. If you have long hair, secure it so that it will not fall into the cgears, and do not wear any lose clothing that might gel caught in the gears.

    26. While holding the aircraft down by the center area (PCB) use your thumb to turn on the power switch( small black slide switch). The motors should not corne on, but the LED (little red lioht) should begin ta flash. 1vlove the throttle stick on the transmitter up (increase throttle) the LED should blink faster, If it instead blinks slower, flip the reveres switch for the throttle channel on the transmitter. Note the LED should blink faster with more throttle, and slower with reduced throttle. The motors will NOT turn on at this lime, the Flyer is not yet ARMED.

    27. On your radio transmitter set the throttle to minimum, and set the throttle trim to minimum.

    28. With the aircraft sitting solidly on the flat surface (do not pick it up) carefully push the arming switch (small white rectangular button labeled "caution") on the top of the PCB. Be prepared for the motors to come on or give a little kick.

    For the following steps, push the throttle stick until the motors just start to spin (about 1/3 throttle)

    29. The motors should not be turning, or turning very slowly . Move the rudder stick (rudder /throttle stick) to full left, both the left and the right motors should turn on, and the front and rear motors should slow down or stop turring. If the opposite happens, flip the servo reversing switch on the transmitter. The motors should now respond as described.

    30. Move the aileron /elevator stick full forward, the rear motor should speed up and the front motor should slow down. If the opposite happens, flip the servo reversing switch for the elevator on the transmitter. This should make i; function as described.

    31. Move the aileron/ elevator stick full right. The left motor should turn on or go faster, and the right motor should slow down or stop. If the opposite happens, flip the servo reversing switch for the aileron channel on the transmitter,. This should fix the problem.

    32. Now move the throttle stick forward until the motors just start to turn. Adjust the elevator trim so that the front and rear motors are spinning at about the same speed, or so they corne ,ii at Zhu same time when the throttle stick is pushed forward.
    33. In a similar fashion, adjust the aileron trim so that the left and right motors run at about the same speed, start at the same time when throttle is applied.

    34. Now adjust the rudder trim so that the front/rear and left/right motor pairs run at about the same speed, or come on at about the same time when throttle is applied.

    Note: This may all seem a bit complicated but don&39;t worry,
    remember we said take your tune, well that is stil! a good
    idea. Get to know your f flyer and how it reacts before you
    try your first f ight. The Flyer is easy to fly once you under-
    stand what is going on when you push those transmitter
    sticks. So...yeah , take your time...

    35 Disconnect and remove the battery pack

    36. Position the frame in front of you so that the battery con-
    nector on the PCB is to the rear right of the frame (near you
    and to the right hand side). This puts the front arm furthest
    from you, pointing away. Install the four rotors using two
    4/40 nylon nuts on each screw. Do not over-tighten. The
    front and rear blades should be the ones designed to turn
    counter clockwise as viewed from the top. The left and right
    blades are to be the clockwise rotating when viewed from on
    top

    37. We highly recommend that you mark the front arm or
    rotor with a highly visible mark. Either by putting colored
    tape on the front arm, or a colored dot in the center of the
    front blade, or using a marker, color the front blade. This is
    necessary in that you must always know which way it is
    pointing in order to properly control the flyer.

    Flying

    Never fly this aircraft where damage to property or injury to persons may result if loss of control occurs.

    Never leave the Flyer unattended with a battery connected to it. Always disconnect battery when not flying.

    Always turn the Roswell Flyer off FIRST and then turn of the transmitter. Failure to do so could cause the Flyer to become airborne and out of control resulting in injury or damage

    Startup procedure:

    1. Turn the black sliding switch to the off position

    2. Connect the battery to the PCB

    3. Turn on the transmitter, and make sure that the throttle is fully closed.

    4. Turn the switch on the Flyer to the ON position. You should note that the LED will staff i blinking. Make sure at this stage that when you advance the throttle stick, that the LED blinks faster. This verifies the functionality of tire radio link. Return the throttle to minimum.

    5 . While holding the Flyer down on the ground at the center, push the arming switch on the Flyer. Be prepared for the motors to turn on at any time! If they come on for some reason, and you can not throttle them back, turn off the switch on the PCB and check the radio and receiver.

    6. Back away from the flyer to a safe distance.

    ?. Slowly increase the throttle until the Flyer gets light, and the adjust the trims on the transmitter, so that i: doesn&39;t icimediately turn or try to fly off in some direction:

    The Roswell Flyer flies similar to a helicopter, if you are
    model helicopter pilot, you should be up and flying within a
    few minutes. If you aren&39;t familiar with choppers, dont
    worry the Roswell Flyer is actually much easier than a
    chopper.
    The trickiest part is getting used to the rotation. Start by giving it just enough throttle to get the aircraft light, and then practice keeping the front arm always pointing forward. Make sure you have a good feel for this before you try and get much higher off the ground.
    Forward flight:
    While the Roswell Flyer is designed primarily for hovering, forward flight is more than possible. One thing to note though, as the speed of the Flyer increases, it will require more and more forward stick to keep it going, eventually it will pitch up and stop the forward motion. With this in mind, be aware that as you move to forward flight the flight performance will change and require more transmitter input to maintain the forward motion.

    Wind:
    The Roswell Flyer can fly outdoors in a limited amount of wind, however, do to the very lfight disk loading of the Flyer, it will become difficult to maintain station in a moderate breeze.

    Ceiling:
    Y ou can fly the Roswell Flyer as high as you like so long as you can still see it well enough to control the flyer. However care should be taken not to stay up high too long as you may not have enough battery power to make a successful landing. Also a rapid vertical descent should be avoided for similar reasons.

    Discharged battery:
    The Roswell Flyer is designed to Nover at about 1/3 to 1/2 throttle with the supplied battery pack in the fully charged state. As the battery approaches the end of its charge, you will notice that more throttle input is required to hold it in a hover. This is how you tell is the battery is running low, and it is at this point that you should be begin planning your landing or at least getting near the spot where you intend to land.

    Flight Time:
    The Roswell Flyer should be able to Nover for about 3 minutes on a fully charged battery pack, alter that time, it will descend to a point where it will only fly about a foot off the ground. After about ) 0 to 20 seconds, you -ill notice that it takes more than 3/4 throttle to maintain a low Nover. At about this point the Flyer will start to become somewhat unstable and it is at this point that it is best to land and recharge the battery. This period of instability at the end of the battery charge is normal and is caused be the lower battery voltage in the discharged state.
    Optional performance enhancement ideas:


    The Fine Art of Tweaking:
    While thé rotor components of thé Roswell Flyer are care-
    fully machined to perform well without much need for ad-
    justment, you may be able to make your Flyer even smoother
    by tracking and balancing thé blades.


    The rotor blades on thé Roswell Flyer are very light and
    spin at a relatively low RPM so balance isn&39;t as critical as it
    would be on an airplane propeller. None thé less, a well bal-
    anced machine (helicopter or Flyer) is a joy to fly.


    To balance thé blades on thé Roswell Flyer, loosen thé
    screws that hold one of thé motors and pull it back so that
    thé gears no longer mesh and thé rotor turns freely. Now
    tilt thé Flyer into a 90 degree bank and notice what thé
    blade does. If one blade or thé rotors always seems to swing
    down, then that is thé "heavy" blade. You can do one of two
    things at this point.
    1. Sand a small amount of material from thé edge heavy
    blade until it balances.
    2. Add a small piece of tape to thé light blade until it bal-
    ances ( wrap tape half on top and half on thé bottom of thé
    blade so it won&39;t peel off

    Now return thé motor to its&39; origine&39; _ position

    That is it, just do the same procedure for all four blades.

    Tracking refers to making thé tips of thé rotor blades fly at
    thé same level. Making thé tip heights equal implies that
    each rotor blade is producing thé exact same amount of lift
    and thus help reduce shaking of thé rotor shaft. On most
    model helicopters, this is done by adjusting a ball link, but
    since thé Roswell Flyer is not bound by thé limits of human
    design, a différent method is used.

    ï o start with, you need to check thé existing tracking situa-
    don, i1 will Ikciy be just fine. &39;fo do this hover thé Flyer
    high enough and at a safe distance ,so that you can CARE-
    FULLY look across thé plane of thé rotor blades. Look at
    thé edge of each tip path and see if you see one looks like
    one rotor tip or two. If you only see one rotor tip zinging by,
    then that blade is tracked adequately. Check all for blades
    this way. For those where you see what looks like two rotor
    tips, tracking is in order.


    To track thé blades you must first determine which one is
    flying high. Do this by either marking thé tip of one blade
    with a bright marker or put on a piece of bright colored tape
    that you can remove after thé process. Now bring the Flyer Pa 15
    into a hover again and look at thé marked rotor.

    The marked blade will either be high or low, just remember which land, and disconnect the battery.
    If the marked blade was low then you may want to increase its&39; pitch, if the marked blade was high, then you should reduce its&39; pitch.

    The pitch can be quickly adjusted by heating the root of the rotor right at the rim of the gear, with a heat gun. Heat only until the material just starts to soften. Then twist the blade in the desired direction (don&39;t twist very much just a degree or so) then hold the blade still for about a minute while it cools.

    Check the results by hovering again, and adjust as required to get good tracking.
    High speed uncontrolled ground contact
    (or a crash to the rest of us)

    The frame:
    The frame of the Roswell flyer is made of a wood based laminate, and mends very well with epoxy. If an arm is broken in a hard landing, you may glue it back together with epoxy. For extra reinforcement, you should apply a small piece of tight weight fiberglass cloth to each side, and epoxy i; in place. Check for crack in the frame alter any hard landing, and do not fly the aircraft if any of the components have been weakened by crash damage.


    The Rotor blades:
    Do NOT attempt to repair a broken or damaged rotor blade. Always replace with a new blade. Use of a repaired blade will almost certainly.result-in an in-flight blade failure and result in further damage to the aircraft.

    Beginners Read This.

    If you are new to R/C choppers and planes, in the words of Douglas Adams, DONT PANIC. It is out experience that new pilots tend to over control the transmitter sticks, or just the opposite, they do nothing at all. Some place between too much and too little is that happy place where the Flyer Oies and you have fun. The best place to find the "Flying grove" is to practice in short spurts, Hop the flyer off the ground a few roches, but do so with a purpose in mind. Like, keep the nose point in a certain direction or make the flyer moue right and then set down. Above all else take your time, think about what you are doing, before you do it.

    In the GROUND EFFECT the flyer gets pushed around by the wind that it produces. This also creates that cushion of air which the flyer can float on with less power. However flying a few roches off the ground gets to be real boring. You have to get the flyer to an eye level hover. This is where all the fun begins. Until you are comfortable with hovering just above the around, in the ground effect, dont give the flyer too much power.

    No doubt you will give the Flyer a bit too much juice and it will rise to a height that will be new to you, this is where the phrase, DONT PANIC cornes into play. The Roswell Flyer, DOES fly, so relax, enjoy and mort of all do something, but not TOO much. A little bit goes a long way.

    One final comment, what you put in, by way of control you will most likely have to take out, if you roll to the right, make sure you roll a bit back to the left or the Flyer will just keep going in the last direction that you gave it. Have fun, after all that is what its all about.

    All parts of the Roswell i Flyer ire available for sale as replacements. Visit out web-site at www.afot.com to order these parts. Or see your local dealer for parts if all else faits, call us direct at 1-800-32$-0184. In a pinch improvise, with all parts, except the motors, the circuit board and the gears. The test of the Flyer is there for you to experiment with. Let your imagination run wild, just be sale and if you fend out other tips and tricks or corne up with a cool design, contact us and share the information. We will be glad to post articles on things you have done to the Flyer, on out web-site.
  • The Roswell Flyer or Draganflyer or HMX-4 flyer were designed by Mike Dammar at www.spectrolutions.com (a very cool man) They all shared a same design, just strong enough to fly indoor. It is the greatest machine i've ever flown, and all friends or people in the street agreed. The price is very high (as expensive as a picollo) but the price range is the same with all rc helicopter : all price can be easily divided by 2! I regret that only a few people can buy this wonderful machine but if you can afford one, do not hesitate : buy one, it is very stable in the air (3 gyro) but still required some helicopter knowledge.

    Clone

    This is the Roswell Flyer or HMX-4 flyer.
    The old manufacturer of the Roswell Flyer
    (www.afot.com) disapear, but you can still
    aquire the HMX-4 at www.spectrolutions.com.
    Model is discontinued and can not be bought.
    This is the Draganflyer, can be bought
    at www.draganfly.com It has a much
    better frame in carbon.
    This is the Draganflyer XP, the big brother of the
    Roswell Flyer. Draganfly corp (www.draganfly.com)
    sell them.
    Glow version, build by a Swiss guy. A pics of this device
    flying was published in RCM magazine.
    No other info avalaible.
    Contact me HERE if you have informations.

    Daniel Prelinger version

    With no CPU at all only mixing devices and 3 gyro
    Page is HERE
    His plan is here (not tested and author do not respond)

    http://www.inetport.com/~davisele/roswell.html Richards Friedrich had a lot of knowledge using
    the basic stamp, great chance of success.
    Project Stopped.
    www.gizmocopter.org based on a linux system and pc104 card
    (expensive setup). Do not know if it fly. This project is trying to
    build a remote flying plattform and therefore use expensive
    devices to achieve their target.
    Vectron blackhawk, thethered version not so interesting except
    it's low price. ($90) Movered it's principle do not allow the TX to
    loose direct view on ship (infrared beam which act as a fixed
    reference for the control)
    CL327

    Origin : Canada
    Remote controlled
    Contra Rotor
    Rotor diameter : 4 meter
    Height : 1.84 m
    Empty weight : 150 kg (no fuel, no load)
    Gross take off mass : 350 kg
    Payload carrying capacity : 105 kg
    Speed : 157 km/h
    Ceiling : 5.5 km
    Climb rate : 7.6 m/sec
    Range : 200 km
    Mission : surveillance, border patrol...

    ENGAGER GS III E-770
    500mm X 400mm, Height 120mm,
    Rotor size: 330mm,
    Weight: 300g,
    Ni-Cd-Akku 7,2V, 500mAh, 120g


    GYRO SAUCER II E-570
    250mm, width 250mm, Height 75mm,
    Rotor size: 133mm,
    Weight: 85g,
    Ni-Cd-Akku 7,2V, 120mAh
    http://www.jugend-forscht.de/html/wet/i_lis.php
    ?id=1389&stichwort=&plz=&bundesland=Bayern&
    jahr=2003&fachgebiet=Technik
    Fuzzy controler and fast processor.
    Controlled with a hand glove.

    Reviews

    Great machine, except flight duration (3-4 or 5 minutes!). I hope that new generation of li-ion will help.

  • kyosho_caliber_30

    KYOSHO CALIBER 30 / JULY-AUG 02 ROTORY
    from Rotory
    Caliber 30 comes almost completely built. I estimate that a beginner could take the box home and in less than 6-8 hours, they could be at the flying field, ready for their first taste of rotory wing. The Caliber 30 is designed for both the beginner and advanced pilot as well. The helicopter can be configured in two ways. In the beginner set-up, the main rotor blade holders are controlled from the trailing edge, with reduced mixing, making the machine extremely stable. For aerobatics (3D), you just assemble it with the control rods on the leading edge and the machine is capable of aerobatics with no modifications what-so-ever.
    For those of you with standard radio sets, you’ll be happy to know the Caliber can be set-up with either EMS/electrical mixing system or MMS/mechanical mixing system. With the mechanical mixing, “single servo systemâ€?, the servos are mounted on a movable plate which rides on four ball bearings to achieve cyclic control. If you choose the CCPM version, as we did, you use a fixed servo plate in which three servos provide cyclic/collective control. The swashplate on the Caliber is ingenious, it has inputs for both mechanical or CCPM. The cyclic bell cranks also have two positions on the frame to accommodate either control system as well. Bottom line is, the Caliber 30 will work with most any radio system.
    The drive train on the Caliber 30 is somewhat like its 60 size big brother. It is uniquely belt driven for smooth and quiet operation. There is absolutely no vibration transferred from the engine to the drive train. The Caliber 30 uses a total of two belts; one for the engine to transmission, and the other from the transmission to the tail rotor.
    The engine mounting is also unique in that the engine is mounted in an all metal cast engine support, which slides into the frame set. This serves to strengthen the base of the frames yet, provide easy removal of the engine by dropping it out the bottom.
    Kyosho did make a mistake by using Phillips head screws almost throughout the entire helicopter. While a few screws here and there are fine, they went overboard and even mounted the engine with 3mm Phillips head hardware. Once you blue Locktite the hardware as they suggest, there is almost no way to remove it again. Should you round off one of those screw heads, you’re in trouble. I would highly recommend that you do not use the provided screws, go out and purchase some hex head hardware.
    The Caliber comes with a gear ratio of 9.6. A two stage belt drive system offers a driven tail rotor, which means the tail rotor turns all the time, even during an autorotation. I have mixed feelings about this option for the beginner. While I’m aware that a driven tail rotor system is preferred for the expert, with light weight 550 main rotor blades, you have to have your act together to perform anything other than a “straight-onâ€? autorotation. The extra drag of the tailrotor (especially with a belt drive tail) really taxes the rotor system and there’s not a whole lot left for any fancy hover, then land autos.
    The engine drive on the Caliber is unique as well. Ours was powered by an OS .32 engine. The clutch is supported by what appears to be a 10mm shaft, which screws on to the clutch. I would highly recommend that you use 5 min. epoxy to set the two bearings in the plastic bell housing, since the fit was a bit on the loose side. The fan is mounted with two 3mm hex screws which are situated above the clutch assembly, putting it quite a ways from the cylinder head. So far, I have not had any over heating problems, but it’s still relatively cool, and I’m using 30% Morgan fuel. The Caliber does come with a cast (baffled) muffler which, for the most part, is pretty quiet. It did weigh-out at a beefy 118 grams. The cast muffler greatly aids in the cooling of the cylinder head.
    The main frame set of the Caliber 30 was carefully thought out. First off, the forward section is one of the best I’ve seen. The radio system is really protected by cavities/trays, which are molded into the frames. There are four cavities which house; the servos, battery, receiver, and gyro. Our Futaba GY401 gyro looked lost in the recess. In addition, there is access for you to route your wires from area to area. The frame set also holds a “CGâ€? mounted 340cc fuel tank which is securely mounted between the frames and offers good visibility.
    The main rotor head of the Caliber comes fully assembled. While it still has a “skinneyâ€? flybar, the Caliber 30 does have a 10mm main shaft. Inside the blade holders you’ll find two bearings and a thrust bearing. As I mentioned, the Caliber comes with two set-ups. You choose from; a RRS set-up (rear grip system) or a FRS set-up (front grip system). With the RRS system, the Caliber 30 is ideal for training, since it’s considerably more stable. With the FRS set-up, it’s suitable for aerobatics, thanks to a different mounting location of the input rod on the Bell-Hiller lever. The machine comes standard with the aerobatics set-up. For the most part, I would recommend that even a beginner start off with the standard FRS set-up (front grip system). Due to the high main shaft and somewhat soft dampening, the Caliber 30 would provide a good learning platform for a beginner with a little expo or rates on cyclic.
    The tail rotor on the Caliber 30 uses a boom mounted tail rotor servo. I would have preferred to see it under the hood to avoid the use of an extension wire. The tail rotor grips are 60 size and the pitch change mechanism works smoothly.
    Last, but not least, is the Caliber 30 Canopy. At first, I sort of had my doubts, but the new style definitely grows on you. If nothing else, it’s unique. This, combined with some bullet proof (poly) vertical and horizontal surfaces, make for a tough all around package.
    The Caliber 30 is without-a-doubt a giant step for Kyosho in modernizing their helicopter line. Even though the Caliber is using CCPM, for the most part, everything is under the hood (canopy) where it belongs. Whether you’re a beginner, looking for an easy way to get into the air, or a more accomplished pilot into aerobatics, the new Caliber from Great Planes could be a wise choice.
    Street Price $419.99 w/OS .32 or $299.99 w/o engine

    Story by, Mike Mas

    Machine Specifications:
    Length: 1095mm
    Height: 408mm
    Weight: 2900g
    Gear ratio: 9.615 to 1 to 5.0
    Main rotor: 1230mm
    Tail rotor: 240mm
    Engine: 32 to 38 class
    Fuel tank capacity: 340cc

    For Further Information:
    Great Planes Dist.
    P.O. Box 9021, Champaign, IL 61826
    (800) 682-8948
    www.kyosho.com

    A full lenth review appears in the July / Aug 02 issue of Rotory Modeler Magazine
    --------------------
    Rotory Staff
    This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
    http://www.rotory.com

    • N'ayer jamais personne derrière vous : en cas d'imprévu vous risqueriez de trébucher et la....gag.
    • Ne jamais avoir moins de 15 mètres entre vous et l'hélico! si une pièces s'éjecte du rotor (a plus de 450km/h) ou que vous crasher, vous risquez vous ou un spectateurs de prendre un débris.
    • Un écrou frein pour être efficace doit avoir au moins 3 filets au dela de la bague plastique. Ceci n'est pas le cas des pales de l'anticouple du raptor -> a changer. Changer l'ecrou frein tous les 4-5 démontage et vérifier si la bague plastique est toujours efficace.
    • Voler à deux helicopteres c'est pas bien... ou avec des avions autour... essayer d'avoir un camarade pres de vous qui surveille la scène au cas ou...
    • Voler seul dans un champ c'est cool, mais vous ferez quoi en cas d'accident ????
    • Ayer une trousse de premier secours sur vous, le strict minimum : gazes et bandes, + de quoi faire un garrot....et un portable, un copain pourra vous porter secours ainsi plus facilement.
    • Sur votre caisse de modélisme ou malette radio, coller un papier donnant :
      - Votre groupe sanguin complet (type et rhésus),
      - Nom, adresse, numero de téléphone des personnes à contacter,
      - Hopital de prédilection (public ou privé de votre région)
      - Numéro de securité sociale.
      - allergies ou instructions.
    • Vous ne mettriez jamais la main sous votre tondeuse à gazon en marche, non ???? ben regarder votre hélicoptere : c'est comme une méga tondeuse sans carter de protection des lames ! alors quand le rotor tourne, on s'éloigne !
    • Penser a TOUT MOMENTS que : une interfèrence, une chape/rotule ou un servo qui lâche ou se bloque et l'hélico peut se mettre en translation rapide dans n'importe quel direction! Une seule chance de s'en sortir est d'avoir du temps pour anticiper la direction et donc de TOUJOURS avoir 15 mètres ou plus entre vous et l'hélico.
    • Programmez la fonction Throttle-Cut (coupe le moteur a distance sur un interrupteur) et laisser les pales ralentir avant de récuperer votre joujou.
    • Programmez la fonction Throttle-Hold (maintien des gazs quelque soit la position du stick droit) et activer la pour transporter l'helico sur le terrain. (juste pour éviter au cas ou, si vous tombiez d'encore ouvrir les gazs à fond).
    • Vérifier les parties en mouvements avant, entre et après chaque vol, voir s'éjecter une palette, ou une pale en vol est une chose qu'on n'oublie pas ! faut encore ne pas se la prendre dans une partie vitale pour pouvoir s'en rappeler.....des fois le destin on y croit....
    • Vous pensez que j'en fait trop ? penser à la tondeuse à gazons et imaginer vous sans une main....(un tendon ou un nerf coupé cela suffit...)
    • Je ne suis pas pour le prolongateur de bougie... cela fait du poids inutile en vol mais surtout cela donne la flemme d'enlever la canopie (bulle) pour démarrer, pourtant quand on l'enlève entre 2 vols, des fois on voit des bugs mécaniques que l'on n'aurait pas vu autrement... cela sauve des fois la machine et évite un accident.
    • Ne voler pas en dessous de 5 degrés ! avec le froid et le vent relatif du à la rotation du rotor la température chute beaucoup trop et fragilise le plastique, une chape peut donc casser à tout moment ! (du vécu chez des collègues du club, chapes neuves ou pas...)
    • Dès que vous avez de l'assurance, monter en stationnaire au dessus du regard, (des fois qu'un truc s'éjecte du rotor) ne vous en faites pas si un truc lache ou casse en vol, l'hélico tombe comme un pierre et reste prévisible (sauf si c'est un top radio ou que le servo de gazs se bloque :-( essayer de sauver l'hélico mais attention, protéger les équipement et les personnes avant ! c'est a dire : toujours sacrifier l'hélico et/ou planquer vous !)
    • Regarder sur www.runryder.com section "RC Helis are not toy" pour des compte rendus d'accidents, de blessés et de mort.
  • Correct Official page in japanese
    with a lot of crazy metal parts, this beautiful metal head cost only 200â?¬
    Quick uk release a swashplate and has now a page for the caliber 30:
      Kyosho
    RCmodelsports
  • This tricopter/ tri-rotor is a hobby project. Three MEMS gyroscopes and a two axis MEMS accelerometer are used as sensors. It performs very well in aerobatics ("acro mode"), but it can also hover on its own ("hover mode").

    This time with the full PLANS to do it yourself (you need to be able to build it through)

    All content is published under CC Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 Germany

    two_tricopters

    Video in action

    Tricopter - Flips and a little bit of gardening from W. Thielicke on Vimeo.

    Visit http://shrediquette.blogspot.com/ for more details

  • kyosho_caliber_30

    Reference Number Description
    CA-3001
    CA-3002
    CA-3003
    CA-3004
    CA-3005
    CA-3006
    CA-3008
    CA-3009
    CA-3010
    CA-3011
    CA-3011-01
    CA-3012
    CA-3013
    CA-3014
    CA-3015
    CA-3016
    CA-3016-01
    CA-3017
    CA-3018
    CA-3019
    CA-3020
    CA-3021
    CA-3022
    CA-3023
    CA-3024
    CA-3025
    CA-3026
    CA-3027
    CA-3028
    CA-3029
    CA-3030
    CA-3031
    CA-3032
    CA-3033
    CA-3034
    CA-3035
    CA-3036
    CA-3037
    CA-3038
    CA-3039
    CA-3040
    CA-3041
    CA-3042
    CA-3043
    CA-3044
    CA-3045
    CA-3046
    CA-3047
    CA-3048
    CA-3049
    CA-3050
    CA-3051
    CA-3052
    CA-3053
    CA-3054
    CA-3055
    CA-3056
    CA-3057
    CA-3058
    CA-3059
    CA-3060
    CA-3061
    CA-3062
    CA-3063
    CA-3064
    CA-3065
    CA-3066
    CA-3067
    CA-3068
    CA-3069
    CA-3070
    CA-3071
    CA-3072
    CA-3073
    CA-3074
    CA-3075
    Z-8017
    96694
    96888
    96895
    96996
    Rotor Head Center Hub
    Yoke
    Seesaw
    Spindle Shaft
    Main Rotor Grip
    Collar (6x10x1mm)
    Seesaw Damper
    Stabilizer Bar
    Hiller Control Arm
    Stabilizer Blade
    Stabilizer Blade Cap
    Mixing Arm
    Ball End 4,8mm
    One Piece Clutch Shoe
    Clutch Shaft
    Clutch Bell (26T Pulley)
    Clutch Lining
    Cooling Fan
    Starter Coupling
    Main Gear (90T)
    Main Mast
    Counter Shaft
    Counter Gear (18T)
    Drive Pulley
    Drive Belt
    Main Frame (L)
    Main Frame (R)
    Engine Mount Set
    Fuel Tank
    Brace
    Skid
    Body
    Decal (Body/Caliber 30)
    Decal (Canopy/Caliber 30)
    Muffler
    Mast Stopper
    Swash Plate (Upper)
    Swash Plate (Lower)
    Inner Ball (Swash)
    Radius Plate
    Slide Block
    Wash-Out Arm
    Wash-Out Arm Link
    Servo Frame Set
    Servo Plate (MMS)
    Servo Plate (EMS)
    Aileron/Elevator Lever Set
    Elevator Shaft
    Tail Pipe
    Tail Support Pipe
    Tail Linkage Rod
    Tail Drive Belt
    Rudder Servo Holder
    Tail Rod Guide
    Tail Drive Pulley (16T)
    Tail Pulley Holder
    Tail Pulley Case (L)
    Tail Pulley Case (R)
    Horizontal Fin
    Horizontal Fin Holder
    Vertical Fin
    Tail Output Shaft
    Tail Pitch Lever
    Tail Pitch Lever Pin
    Tail Pitch Ring Set
    Tail Pitch Link Set
    Tail Center Hub
    Tail Rotor Grip
    Tail Rotor
    Cross Member
    Body Mount
    Collar (3x5x4mm)
    Collar (8x12x3mm)
    Hear Linkage Set
    Servo Linkage Set
    High Grade Main Rotor (550mm)
    PH Linkage Ball
    One-Way Bearing (8x12)
    6x13x5mm Ball Bearing
    6x12x4,5mm Ball Bearing
    5x10x4mm Ball Bearing

  • Symptoms:
    • Starter coupling does not last long. (CA3018)
    • Hex adapter from the starter is also rounded
    Reasons
    • Starter coupling is made of a soft metal.
    • Hex starter is sliping at each start and round the starter coupling
    Cure:
    • Change the part CA3018 (new one will not last longer)
    • Buy a real hex adapter with a one way bearing like this one:

      Which will last forever, and throw away this kind:
    • Eventualyyou can buy the aftermarket part

      Some people has reported good result with it, but it is expensive. Buy this prt only if you want a metal clutch.
    Attention:
    •  

  • "Added a 1/4' long rubber tube (from the xcell fury for example) onto the spindle center to give it a pivot point just like the Fury has. It stiffend the head some and it will still hovers great."
    (by d-n-jensen )
  • You have some problem to remove genuine screws on your caliber 30. They seems to be made of a very soft/cheap metal.

    Cause?
    Head screws used are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS). Regular metric screwdrivers will not work.

    Possible solutions:
    • Buy a set of JIS drivers from Heliproz/Cyberheli/www.custom-rc
    • Buy stainless allen head replacements.
    • Buy an upgrade kit at www.custom-rc

  • The term super servo is used to describe servos capable of running at high data frame rates (6ms per frame or less). Examples of this type of servo are the JR2700G and Futaba-S9250. The use of super servos is highly recommended as they allow the gyro to fully exploit its fast response.
    WARNING:Use of the super servo facility with servos not designed to accept the high frame rate will result in damage to the servo.
    Below is a non exhaustive list of super servos:
    JR -(2700G, 4000, 2000, 7000, 7100, 8700G, 8417(Digital), 8231(Digital), 8411(Digital).
    Futaba -(9250, 9450(Digital)).
  • >Can you give me some advice on how to get the stock pins out of the hornet II main shaft. There are two. One in the  >main gear and one in the head block.

    very depending... on the configuration of parts (with or without electronic and plastic) around...

    • Only metal part -> in hoven 80°C, let dilatation work for You...
    • A mix of plastics and metal without electronics-> in freezer -10°C during 2 hours , let dilatation work for You...
    • A full heli around :-) use a grip like this one:  or a  smaller model ->



      apply a pressure on only one side of the pins with grip, the other side must touche only the main shaft
    Interesting readings:

     Tricks of the Trade: Poor Man's Hornet 2

  • Toshiba has developed a Lithium-Ion battery capable of being charged to 80 per cent of its full capacity in under 60 seconds. Filling it up takes just "a few more minutes", the company boasted today. That's considerably faster than today's Li-ion rechargeables which can take 1-4 hours to reach 80 per cent capacity, and even longer to fill completely.more here

  • verify
    • Thrust bearings in the rotor head installed properly (not reverse)?
    • Radial bearings in the head not damaged? -> change them
    • Bearings in the blade holders are moving -> loctite the bearing or replace blade holders, or buy &39;upgrade&39; metal blade holders
    actions
    • Grease the dampener rubbers, this has prove to cure some woof and poof on raptor 30v1
    • ...