Equiped with :
|Motor: ||BrushlessPlettenberg 300/24/A3 (old version with optical sensor |
less interferences problem) (270â¬)
|Controller: ||Schulze Future 35 HO (35/40A, 16-30 battery) (220â¬) |
|Gyro: ||CSM 540 Heading lock |
|RX: ||Robbe/Futaba R149DP 41MHz |
|Pitch/Roll/Nick-Servo: ||Robbe/Futaba S 3001 |
|Tail-Servo: ||Super Servo Futaba s9250 numeric |
|Battery: ||2 x 12 x 2000 mAh NiCdSanyo RC 2000 |
|Blades: ||quick uk CFK blades or wood stock blades |
|Weight empty: ||2360gr with canopy (180gr) and blades (180gr) |
|Weight in flight: ||3.780gr. with canopy and 24 x 2000er battery (1400gr) |
|Flight time: ||9:45 slow, 6:00 3D, 11:45 with 2400 battery. |
|Others: ||TT metal swashplate, CFK-Frame, head button, quick uk rear mount servo |
Linkswhere You can buy this machine...
size="4">Original view of the CNC frame :
Simplicity of electric
motor vs gaz.
View of the head,
TT metal swashplate
Helihut head button
Others parts are standard.
Battery fixation look
very fragile. I will fixed them
Left side view, eRaptor
seems to be empty but
weight of battery are
Here too, the fixation
is not efficient. An
aluminium version will
Battery are taking a lot of space.
Futura Regler from
Right side view.
The frame is a little bit fragile, maybe because of the number of hole in it...the weight gained is not so huge.
Maybe the GFK version is better (and the price too). Definitively i would recommand a standard frame and
an actro. The avaibility of part is a lot better, price is inexpensive (moreover the actro deliver 1200 Watts and the plettenberg only! 700 Watts). For having an example how to build it, just have
a look at this page :
Flight log :
3 flight since now, the sound is really nice but the battery say very rapidly that they are down, 15 seconds
and after you must land ! otherwise you will pratice an autorotation. I will confirm this this week end. (I hope
the weather will be good enough).
Displace the antenna in front of the heli as recommended on www.mikado.de (they have a page on how to reduce radio interferences).
Displace gyro, rx from 7 cm with a carbon plate (far away from motor)
add ferrites everywhere, reroute some cables.
reduce lengths of connections to battery.
I have some problem with the tail belt, it become loose even in flight (I loose control 2 times). I decide to stop the translation of the boom with a metallic Fixation. The machine is very smooth and noise is very low (quiet).
Add a pack of 1700mAh (RX), so I can make 8 flight without recharging...The metallic fixation on the tail tube fixed it's translation. No Problem since.
20 flights with the machine without any problem. I must admit that kind of machine is not for a newbie....you must set up a timer and carefully record your flight
time (I do not get over 8min30 s for security) and land before loosing control or doing an autorotation (I have no pratice ;-)). On the others hand, i go to the fields with only battery and a fast charger...
Motor cut off 4 meters above ground ! no damage....the controller was too hot and the journey too (29Â°C). I dissassemble the controller and add thermal coupound and a bigger metal plate. see photos
- Tighten carefully the screw that hold the motor in position, if they become loose, then the motor can move too much, this modify the clearance between the motor and the main spur gear : a good way to destruct it....
- Set a timer and when power decrease, land immediately ! moreover don't let your pack discharged, land !
- Flight time can only be determine : rotor speed and style of flying affect the total flight time : 5'30s for 3D to 10' 45s !
- Do not buy RC2400, because the weight capacity ratio is not as good as RC2000 or RC1900
- Hight current charging mean high power but less flight time, and low current charging lead to less power but longer flight time.
Why an electric helicopter ? (from Jason,www.ezonemag.com taken on newsgroup) "Youll get a LOT of opinions here....rather than do that, Id like to show the
pros and cons before saying one IS better than the other. I personally fly
both....micro indoor electric helis up to .60 sized glow!
Quiet, clean, charge a battery and go. IF you use the correct motor, pinion
gear, cells, etc (All this info easily found in the heli manual or on
ezonemag.com....or via me an email =0), you will NEVER have a motor problem or
adjustments to make. The electric motor will always be there, working just as
good as before with no adjusting required. Brushless motors are even better!
For a beginner, the right electric heli is an EXCELLENT tool. With the right
motor, it will fly like a glow model, with the same type of power and feel.
The downsides are simple. Flight times with electric are anywhere from 4-12
minutes...it all depends on you motor, batteries, etc. Typically, most
electric helis will be in the 6-10 minute range. Glow helis get about 8-15
minutes of flight time (Some even more) per tank of fuel. However, if you
watch and time MOST guys flying glow helis, they are up for around 8-10 minutes
and thats all....so electric isnt that far off.
The other downside is that most people dont have a lot of knowledge on electric
helis. Meaning its harder to find help. Again though - the net is a VERY
powerful resource. Between web searches, ezonemag.com and myself, I am most
certain to get you the right electric heli, motor, etc for you and your budget.
When it comes to cost, both are in the same ball park. Electrics might cost
more at first, but you never need to buy fuel, glow plugs, fuel pump, glow plug
lighter, etc, etc. So it all works out over time. Truth is, guys who fly
electric spend less in the long run than glow heli pilots.
All the downsides to electrics are of course the upsides to glow. Both are
well suited for the beginners (Guys will argue this...but it will truly be out
of lack of knowledge...you CAN learn to fly and fly WELL on an electric heli!),
costs are near the same. Electric has the edge on ease of maintence and less
costs down the road. Glow helis allow for more access to knowledge, longer
flight times per actual flight and there are a lot more choices.
Will you be having help from other experienced RC pilots? This is imperitive
to learning to fly helis. Even driving 12 hours once to have your heli
properly set up by an experienced pilot saves countless hours of frustration
for the beginning heli pilot. Its already hard for beginners to fly helis,
much worse if that heli isnt built and adjusted right!
Email me directly if you want more info on either glow or electric. Set at
least a $900+ budget and youll be set. You can get flying for less, but it
will be a used heli or small indoor electric, LMH, etc. What is your budget?
My top heli recomendations in the $900+ range are the JR Voyager E with
upgraded brushless motor (electric), Thunder Tiger Raptor 30 (Glow) and for a
less than $500 budget, the indoor/outdoor micro Hornet electric heli.
Check out the link below for more electric heli info. Be sure to look and
search the duscussion heli forum on the site as well. Good luck!
Check out my Electric R/C Helicopter Column "Vertical Charge" here: