hobby

A hobby is a regular activity that is done for pleasure, typically during one's leisure time. Hobbies can include collecting themed items and objects, engaging in creative and artistic pursuits, playing sports, or pursuing other amusements. read more at WikiPedia

  •  Bernardet cabri 50cm3 1954  

      Je recherche un cabri 98 cm3 etat concours, je paye un tres bon prix. <me contacter ici>

    Le Cabri, est un modèle de scooter individuel sorti en juillet 1954.qui ne pèse que 34 kg et possède des petites roues de 3 x 8".
    Un gros tube de 45 mm de diamètre sert d'ossature ; y sont fixés le tablier en tôle et la plate-forme repose-pieds en aluminium.

    L'ensemble moteur-boîte de vitesse- roue arrière est articulé sous ce tube. Un bloc de caoutchouc est la seul suspension arrière. La suspension avant à roue tirée utilise des anneaux Neimann (directement tiré du E51). Le réservoir de cinq litres est assez fragile et supporte la selle. Au bas du réservoir, une jupe court le long du carter de chaîne et masque, en partie, la roue arrière. Le bloc- moteur horizontal possède deux vitesses commandées au guidon gauche, au guidon droit un astucieux système : en avant le moteur est decompressé, en arriere on accellère. Les pédales sont la pour répondre à la législation des moins de 50 cm³, et leur rôle se limite à celui de kick-starter.
    Dimensions :1,30m de long, 1,03 m de haut, largeur du guidon : 0,66 m.
    A peu près 300 exemplaires de ce modèle ont été construit. Les 50 cm3 sont très rares car ils font partie des 1er cabri construit par Bernardet....

     
    mCabri1.jpg
    mCabri1.jpg

    Vue de coté, tel que je l'ai acheté sur ebay
    pour 800FF

    mCabri2.jpg
    mCabri2.jpg


    Seul le guidon etait cassé. La peinture d'origine est encore en bon état.

    cabri5.jpg
    cabri5.jpg
    cabri1.jpg
    cabri1.jpg
    cabri2.jpg
    cabri2.jpg
    cabri4.jpg
    cabri4.jpg
    cabri3.jpg
    cabri3.jpg
    cabri6.jpg
    cabri6.jpg

    Vraisemblablement un Bernardet cabri 98ccm.
    J'en recherche un et je suis acheteur, me contacter
     Dépenses :

    - 3.20€ un tube de selle de diametre 25 de 25 cm de long chromé,
    - 30€ de bombes de couleur rouge,
    - 13€ de vis inox de 6mm
    - 2€ de bagette Brox pour souder le guidon,
    - 26€ un guidon de solex 3800 ref s90192 acheté chez le galet.free.fr
    -

    Astuces :

    Pour avoir une roue de secours supplementaire, vous pouvez a partir d'une roue en faire deux....si vous prenez une demi roue de Lambretta pour chaque demi roue de Cabri.

    Avis :

    C'est un scooter attachant et mignon car tres petit, maniable mais la motorisation est un peu legere en 50 cm3. Dommage qu'il ne se soit pas plus diffuses a l'epoque : surement a cause du succes du velosolex, largement moins cher.

     Liens :

    site Bernardet freres sur le cabri

    • Opter pour un prolongateur de bougie, cela facilite le démarrage. Oublier les accus séparés et opter pour un panel qui en plus vous renseignera sur l'état de la bougie.
    • Le moteur TT36 ne tourne bien que riche, très riche !!!! si ils marche erratiquement, virer le et acheter un os32 ou os46
    • Changer tous les mois ou les deux mois la durite interne au réservoir, ceci est surtout valable si vous volez avec beaucoup de nitro (15%)
    • Je vole avec une os8/enya3 car c'est la bougie recommandé pour les TT36, et OS32 quelque soit le temps. En résumé plus le moteur à une forte cylindrée, plus la bougie sera froide. Faible cylindrée la bougie sera d'autant plus chaude que le moteur tourne sous un fort taux de nitro.
    • Si vous déplacer l'helico, penser a boucher la sortie du pot avec un boulquies, cela evite a l'huile de goutter sur le parcours.
    • Une durite/raccord de pot en silicone brule à la longue, acheter en une en téflon, plus cher, mais elle ne bougera plus.
    • Penser à avoir un filtre a carburant sur l'hélico ainsi que sur la pompe à essence.
  • http://www.waltercedric.com/scooters/solex/sch_3300.jpg


  •  
    with a Raptor 30 canopy, things are really easy...note the
    additionnal battery pack mounted in front of the radio tray.
    with default canopyyou must move the CSM box
    the closest as possible to the servo tray


  • Â Mounting a second wheel

  • Build a plate with aluminium or plastic you can bend with heat.
    You must create a U shape and use the screws (red point on schema) to fix it on
    the frame


  • You will have to aquire the following:
    HI3130B Canopy 29.95
    HI3133A Windshield 9.95
    HI3129 Mounting brackets 5.95

  • Â

    E51125cm3 1954

     

    Restauration

    1994, depuis en constante améliorations...

    Dépenses


    photo 1997

    Améliorations

    J&39;adore les vieilles mécaniques, mais il ne faut pas exagérer et perdre en fiabilité non plus. J&39;ai donc remplacer: (j&39;entends déja des gens hurler)

    • Le carburateur par un Polini tout neuf de 2002 de 25mm!, de ce fait j&39;ai fait faire une pipe d&39;admission en cuivre/ laiton chromée.
    • Le pot m&39;énerve aussi un peu (surtout mes voisins :-)): trop de bruit malgré une restauration complète (dégraissage, sablage), il ne va pas tarder a ce faire remplacer par un pot moderne, honteux mais cela reste sous la carosserie. Pour l&39;instant j&39;ai rajouter a l&39;interieur un peu de laine céramique (magasin moto) et rajoutö un silencieux du plus bel effet.
    • Beaucoup de tôles du plancher vibrent: je vais donc le démonter et glisser entre les toles des joints ou morceaux de chambre à air en caoutchoucs.


    photo 1997

    Historique
    http://www.bernardet.com/e51.html

    Au Salon de Paris de 1947, sort le premier modèle puis en 1948 sort la pré-série A.48. Ce scooter de style massif possède un moteur YDRAL de 128 cm3, un bloc moteur deux-temps à 4 vitesses (à l&39;époque les moins de 125 cm3 n&39;étaient pas en vente libre !).

    Le A.49 est l&39;évolution en droite ligne de son aîné mais en plus esthétique et de meilleure conception mécanique. Le B.250 (250 cm3) est présenté au Salon de 1949 : il est tout aussi massif que son prédécesseur mais en 1950, il a perdu quelques kilos et 15 cm. Il disparaît en 1951, car il est d&39;un coût de construction trop élevé. Le 250BM (250 cm3) et le C.50 (125 cm3) sont présentés en 1950.


    photo 1997

    Astuces

    • De temsp en temps, 1 fois tous les deux ans, je rajoute le contenu d&39;un demi flacon de VIMS (remétallisant moteur) dans l&39;essence, cela a déja fait des miracles sur ma voitures et n&39;a jamais géné mes scooters.
    • Si il vous manque une roue de secours et donc la jante, pas de problème : acheter ou récuperer une jante de lambretta et augmenter le diamètre de percage des boulons de fixations.
    • Attention au problèmes de surchauffe du moteur! Mon scooter possède une amélioration originale de l&39;ancien propriétaire: un système de ventilation personnelle qui soufle l&39;air (au lieu de l&39;aspirer) sur le cylindre. Cette personne a soudé électriquement une à une les pales sur un disque métallique.
    • Tout était a l&39;époque en option sur ce scooter: 2ème sièges passager, marche pied en aluminium, porte bagage, casquette de phare, pare-choc avant et roues de secours....j&39;ai de la chance, j&39;avais tout cela sur l&39;epave initiale.
    • Les pneus flancs blancs rehaussent encore plus l&39;aspect raffiné du scooter: un bon investissement !
    • Je monte le plus possible de la visserie inox, cela ne rouillera plus jamais et cela ne coute pas beuacoup plus cher (de toute facon il y a plusieurs qualité d&39;inox). Penser a zinger la carosserie si vous avez prit le soin de mettre à nue la carosserie (env 70€ pour tout le scooter).
    Â

  • Thunder_Tiger_eRaptor

    Equiped with :

    Motor: BrushlessPlettenberg 300/24/A3 (old version with optical sensor
    less interferences problem) (270€)
    Controller: Schulze Future 35 HO (35/40A, 16-30 battery) (220€)
    Gyro: CSM 540 Heading lock
    RX: Robbe/Futaba R149DP 41MHz
    Pitch/Roll/Nick-Servo: Robbe/Futaba S 3001
    Tail-Servo: Super Servo Futaba s9250 numeric
    Battery: 2 x 12 x 2000 mAh NiCdSanyo RC 2000
    Sanyo 700 kr for RX
    Blades: quick uk CFK blades or wood stock blades
    Weight empty: 2360gr with canopy (180gr) and blades (180gr)
    Weight in flight: 3.780gr. with canopy and 24 x 2000er battery (1400gr)
    Flight time: 9:45 slow, 6:00 3D, 11:45 with 2400 battery.
    Others: TT metal swashplate, CFK-Frame, head button, quick uk rear mount servo

    Linkswhere You can buy this machine...

    www.justhelicopter.de http://www.pherzog.de http://www.modellbau-herzog.de http://www.ehelicopter.de

    size="4">Original view of the CNC frame :

    Gallery :

     
    DSC00345.JPG
    DSC00345.JPG

    Simplicity of electric
    motor vs gaz.

    DSC00337.JPG
    DSC00337.JPG

    View of the head,
    TT metal swashplate
    Helihut head button
    Others parts are standard.

    DSC00338.JPG
    DSC00338.JPG

    Battery fixation look
    very fragile. I will fixed them
    better.

    DSC00339.JPG
    DSC00339.JPG

    Left side view, eRaptor
    seems to be empty but
    weight of battery are
    enormous.

    DSC00340.JPG
    DSC00340.JPG

    Here too, the fixation
    is not efficient. An
    aluminium version will
    be better.

    DSC00341.JPG
    DSC00341.JPG

    Battery are taking a lot of space.

    DSC00342.JPG
    DSC00342.JPG

    Futura Regler from
    Schultze.

    DSC00343.JPG
    DSC00343.JPG

    Complete view.

    DSC00344.JPG
    DSC00344.JPG

    Right side view.

    Remarqs :

    The frame is a little bit fragile, maybe because of the number of hole in it...the weight gained is not so huge.
    Maybe the GFK version is better (and the price too). Definitively i would recommand a standard frame and
    an actro. The avaibility of part is a lot better, price is inexpensive (moreover the actro deliver 1200 Watts and the plettenberg only! 700 Watts). For having an example how to build it, just have
    a look at this page :

    http://www.rautenstrauch.net/jsindex.htm?eraptor.htm

    Flight log :

    7.03.2002

    3 flight since now, the sound is really nice but the battery say very rapidly that they are down, 15 seconds
    and after you must land ! otherwise you will pratice an autorotation. I will confirm this this week end. (I hope
    the weather will be good enough).

    20.04.2002

    Displace the antenna in front of the heli as recommended on www.mikado.de (they have a page on how to reduce radio interferences).
    Displace gyro, rx from 7 cm with a carbon plate (far away from motor)
    add ferrites everywhere, reroute some cables.
    reduce lengths of connections to battery.

    11.05.2002

    I have some problem with the tail belt, it become loose even in flight (I loose control 2 times). I decide to stop the translation of the boom with a metallic Fixation. The machine is very smooth and noise is very low (quiet).

    20.05.2002

    Add a pack of 1700mAh (RX), so I can make 8 flight without recharging...The metallic fixation on the tail tube fixed it's translation. No Problem since.

    25.05.2002

    20 flights with the machine without any problem. I must admit that kind of machine is not for a newbie....you must set up a timer and carefully record your flight
    time (I do not get over 8min30 s for security) and land before loosing control or doing an autorotation (I have no pratice ;-)). On the others hand, i go to the fields with only battery and a fast charger...

    02.06.2002

    Motor cut off 4 meters above ground ! no damage....the controller was too hot and the journey too (29°C). I dissassemble the controller and add thermal coupound and a bigger metal plate. see photos

    TIPS :

    - Tighten carefully the screw that hold the motor in position, if they become loose, then the motor can move too much, this modify the clearance between the motor and the main spur gear : a good way to destruct it....
    - Set a timer and when power decrease, land immediately ! moreover don't let your pack discharged, land !
    - Flight time can only be determine : rotor speed and style of flying affect the total flight time : 5'30s for 3D to 10' 45s !
    - Do not buy RC2400, because the weight capacity ratio is not as good as RC2000 or RC1900
    - Hight current charging mean high power but less flight time, and low current charging lead to less power but longer flight time.

     

     

    Why an electric helicopter ? (from Jason,www.ezonemag.com taken on newsgroup)

    "Youll get a LOT of opinions here....rather than do that, Id like to show the
    pros and cons before saying one IS better than the other. I personally fly
    both....micro indoor electric helis up to .60 sized glow!

    Electric -

    Quiet, clean, charge a battery and go. IF you use the correct motor, pinion
    gear, cells, etc (All this info easily found in the heli manual or on
    ezonemag.com....or via me an email =0), you will NEVER have a motor problem or
    adjustments to make. The electric motor will always be there, working just as
    good as before with no adjusting required. Brushless motors are even better!
    For a beginner, the right electric heli is an EXCELLENT tool. With the right
    motor, it will fly like a glow model, with the same type of power and feel.

    The downsides are simple. Flight times with electric are anywhere from 4-12
    minutes...it all depends on you motor, batteries, etc. Typically, most
    electric helis will be in the 6-10 minute range. Glow helis get about 8-15
    minutes of flight time (Some even more) per tank of fuel. However, if you
    watch and time MOST guys flying glow helis, they are up for around 8-10 minutes
    and thats all....so electric isnt that far off.

    The other downside is that most people dont have a lot of knowledge on electric
    helis. Meaning its harder to find help. Again though - the net is a VERY
    powerful resource. Between web searches, ezonemag.com and myself, I am most
    certain to get you the right electric heli, motor, etc for you and your budget.

    When it comes to cost, both are in the same ball park. Electrics might cost
    more at first, but you never need to buy fuel, glow plugs, fuel pump, glow plug
    lighter, etc, etc. So it all works out over time. Truth is, guys who fly
    electric spend less in the long run than glow heli pilots.

    All the downsides to electrics are of course the upsides to glow. Both are
    well suited for the beginners (Guys will argue this...but it will truly be out
    of lack of knowledge...you CAN learn to fly and fly WELL on an electric heli!),
    costs are near the same. Electric has the edge on ease of maintence and less
    costs down the road. Glow helis allow for more access to knowledge, longer
    flight times per actual flight and there are a lot more choices.

    Will you be having help from other experienced RC pilots? This is imperitive
    to learning to fly helis. Even driving 12 hours once to have your heli
    properly set up by an experienced pilot saves countless hours of frustration
    for the beginning heli pilot. Its already hard for beginners to fly helis,
    much worse if that heli isnt built and adjusted right!

    Email me directly if you want more info on either glow or electric. Set at
    least a $900+ budget and youll be set. You can get flying for less, but it
    will be a used heli or small indoor electric, LMH, etc. What is your budget?

    My top heli recomendations in the $900+ range are the JR Voyager E with
    upgraded brushless motor (electric), Thunder Tiger Raptor 30 (Glow) and for a
    less than $500 budget, the indoor/outdoor micro Hornet electric heli.

    Check out the link below for more electric heli info. Be sure to look and
    search the duscussion heli forum on the site as well. Good luck!

    Jason

    Check out my Electric R/C Helicopter Column "Vertical Charge" here:

    http://www.ezonemag.com"
    null
  • Helicopters I own, flight log and Crash log
    click on the picture to jump to the section

    1st Caliber 30 Raptor 60 2nd Caliber 30
    73 flights
    since 03.07.2002

    flight log
    7 flights
    since 21.09.2002


    flight log
    64 flights
    since 18.10.2002

    flight log
    Roswell Flyer Ms Hornet 2  
     
    29 flights
    - 60min. with 5000mAh
    cord battery!
    - 11.30min with 1500mAh
    LiPo

    as 5.06.2001
    since 1.08.2004  
      Reflex XTR Realflight G2
     
      My Simulator N°1
    free addons at
    http://www.reflex-sim.de
    http://rc-sim.de
    My Simulator N°2
    with addons 1,2,3 and 4
    http://www.realflight.com
    Caliber 30 average flight is 22-25 min (normal mode), and 13-15 min ( iddleUp1)
  • Modellsport Hornet 2


    right out the box
    slowly assembling, click read more below

    Equiped with

    Ms Modellsport Hornet 2 bought 130€ onwww.ebay.com
    Gyro: CSM 400 **
    RX: Rx 600 FM 41Mhz
    Pitch/Roll/Nick-Servo: Hitec HS55 **
    Tail-Servo: Hitec HS55 **
    Battery: 2000H3S 2000mAh LiPo Pack 3s Kokam
    bought 213€ with charger onhttp://www.rc-lipo.de/.
    battery are expensive but can be reused for my
    Draganflyer 4 rotor helicopter
    Blades: Carbon blade *
    Others:
    Hacker Motor Pinions 2.3 bore with dual set screw 1 $12
    Steel Pinion - Tail Drive Shaft 1 $6
    Revolution Aluminum base w/CF plate frame for Hornet 2 99€
    Hornet Aluminum Head Block 1 $29
    *
    Stabilizer Anti Rotation Arm with Pin Set Screws 1 $15
    *
    CNC Blade Grips 1 $29
    *
    Hornet Collective Pitch Pivot Support 1 $20
    *
    Hornet Collective Horn 1 $20
    *
    CNC Stabilizer dome 1 $20
    *
    Pro wood fully symmetrical blades with CNC Spacers 1 $17
    Horizontal Fin / Clamp Set 2 26€
    Tail Fin Mount with Tail Servo Mount 2 26€
    CNC Anti Rotation Arm 1 $9
    *
    CNC Tail slider arm 1 *
    120CCPM Low Profile Swashplate SR4 3 $79

    High Strength Plastic Main Gear 180T/40T 3 $11

    Horizontal Fin Holder Hornet II with Fin+
    "W" Carbon Fiber Tail Blades+
    Tail Rudder Servo Mount Hornet II+
    Vertical Fin
    3 free

    Precision High Speed Steel 2x36mm Tail Shaft 3 $6.50
    Precision Tail Gear Case Hornet II
    $45
    Precision Tail Rotor SE
    $60
    Tail Pitch Lever (Bell Crank)
    $25
    Tail Pitch Slider SE
    $35

    Total:
    666€
    1. www.helihobby.com will sell you anything even if it do not past together... 11/20
    2. www.updaterc.com correct prices for europe. 15/20
    3. www.microheli.com SUPER great shop, advices and services, highly recommended 19/20

    * Fully upgrade rotor head (including swahsplatte + anti rotation arm ) bought 140€ with carbon blades (value $229 without blades)
    on
    www.ebay.com . but Available onwww.helihobby.com
    ** From a spare hornet 1 bought for 301€ onwww.ebay.de and partially resold without electronic for 200€ (kept the best part)

    Motor: Hacker 20-22S brushless + controller **
    Number of Crash: 0

    Do you need so much upgrades? certainly not! I would say that the carbon frame, the tail gear case, the swashplate, the tail rudder mount are a must. Prices are going down with the new H2 clone (Dragonfly), moreover I aquire a lot of parts on ebay....

    Details

    The Hitec HS-55 continues the Hitec tradition of affordable performance. Featuring precision components that have been engineered to provide long lasting trouble free service. The HS-55 is the perfect choice for any micro application from indoor R/C and hand launch gliders, to ultra small electric Park and Yard flyers, Speed 400 and 1/2A powered aircraft.

    Technicals informations

    Dimensions: 23 x 12 x 24 mm
    Mass/weight: 8g
    Operating voltage: 4.8 - 6.0 Volts
    Nominal voltage: 4.80 Volts
    Torque: 1.1/1.3 Ncm
    Transit speed: 0.17/0.14 sec.


    ** Complete plastic head CP 43.13€
    Boom & tail assembly 45€
    Hornet 2 main frame 25.06€
    Complete CP metal head upgrade 152€

    on www.ebay.com by lilly2525 (1527)



    Assembling


    Less expensives rotor blades!

    Rotor blades are way to overpriced for that kind of heli, and cost as much as 30 size blades and sometimes more!!!! crazy I list here the less expensives, I encourage You to discuss this on forums or contact me if you find a better source.

    Manuals

    http://www.mscomposit-usa.com/products/helis/MSManuals.php

    LIPO voltage monitor

    http://www.riverrider.dsl.pipex.com/VoltageDetector5.pdf
    http://www.riverrider.dsl.pipex.com/VoltageDetector4.pdf

    Shops/tuning parts

    Tips

    Flight journal

    end

  • trex450sev2

    I've paid 300&8364; (470 CHF) for my new baby:&160; ALIGN TREX 450SE V2

    I hope to be able to fly this 450 size not far away from my apartment in Zurich.
    It should be quiet and small enough to fly in a park with nobody around...at dusk

    My previous experience with an electric helicopter was in 2004 (eRaptor here). For the moment
    I try to practice 1 hours per day in reflex before going to the field.

    544777738_2_Big

    544777738_3_Big

    544777738_4_Big

    544777738_5_Big


    New T-Rex 450SE V2 coming! New V2 features super cool appearance and main rotor head assembly improvement. Using thrust bearing design on Main rotor holder for great smooth rotation under high speed. During hard 3D flight, its actions are very quick and precision. V2 is Combined with 430XL high torque brushless motor for great power. Let&8217;s experience this New T-REX 450SE V2!

    • This kit is for the flyers who want uncompromised performance and quality. This SE arrived with 80% pre-assembled.
    • New CNC 3K carbon frame only 1mm, improve the rigidity and perfect for 3D flying.
    • CCPM version, new aluminum parts for prompt, precision actions.
    • New longer 3K battery mounting plate connects to main frame. It makes the center of gravity closed to rotor blade, and can adjust the center of gravity according to the weight of battery, it reduces the correction when the helicopter is rolling.
    • Rigid CNC aluminum rotor head for precision and smooth movements.
    • Using new Main rotor holder with thrust bearing and 4mm Feathering shaft, features smooth rotation and stability under high rotation speed.
    • Using Ball and Hiller two systems mixing control. Through simple structure of Ball control system, power-saving of Hiller system and CCPM control, can simultaneously control 3 servo for AILE, EVLE, PIT 3 actions. This CCPM control system is great for 3D flying control and extending life cycle of servos.
    • New c.g. amended tail blades feature streamlined and quick, make the gyro more efficient.
    • New tail rotor control set with dual bearing, features CNC control piece and smooth structure design, get smooth pitch travel.
    • Providing flybar weight- When normal flying, you can add the weights on flybar paddles for stable flight. When aerobatic flying, you don&8217;t need to add the weight, but you can see the flexibility of 3D actions.
    • CNC tail pulley assembly and tail holder are using high rigid aluminum alloy, features wear resistant and falling resistance.
    • New gear ratio(4.24:1), suitable for the motor with higher KV, provide more safety.
    • Use Aluminum alloy drive pulley and tail drive pulley, high rigidity and wear resistance. It is efficient to reduce the rotation loss and makes more smooth.
    • Using new high strength ball links and stainless steel linkage balls on the whole unit, feature wear resistance, anti-oxidization.
    • Tail rotor hub made of stainless steel, very rigid.
    • Use 35pcs precision bearing.
    • Great stable and sensitive mixing lever design! Can display the great stability and precision for 3D flight.
    • T-REX 450SE special adjustable pitch system, hold rotation system, tail rotor drive belt system! It is a work of great originality for helicopter!

    Design Features:

    1.New metal head stopper
    2.New main rotor head assembly(4mm feathering shaft+ thrust bearing)
    3.New main drive gear
    4.New fiber-glass painted canopy
    5.New anti rotation bracket
    6.New high strength main frames
    7.New upper bearing block for tail drive gear assembly
    8.New longer, c.g. adjustable battery mounting plate
    9.New higher strength landing skid
    10.New tail boom mount
    11.New tail servo mount with dual fixing holes(apply to S9650)
    12.New tail pitch assembly & New c.g. amended tail blades
    13.New vertical/horizontal stabilizers
    14.New wear-resistance ball links
    15.Improvements for some parts and bearing precision

  • kyosho_caliber_30_00

    My first helicopter :

    This is the last view of my thunder tiger raptor, I regret it each time I see another heli, but I do the right thing : after fighting 2 months with the woof (without poof) and without flying, changing for 250 Euro of part (metal wash out, metal swash plate, flat damper, blade, servo,blade grip etc). I sell it... The person cured the woof and poof because he glue the rotor hub on the main mast.

    In the very beginning of 2001, I was the first person who recommend the raptor, but with the current problem, I can not ! keep your hand away from this bird (or learn to fly with it and sell it if he start to wah wah or woof and poof). The risk is to kill yourself, crash the heli, or injured someone else in during loosing the control. Note that I would buy immediately 2 raptor when ace (the distributor) find the solution, but as today 21.12.2001, there is at least 20 solutions on internet and none cured the problem completly. Worse is the fact than some are really different each other. SORRY BUT BYE BYE RAPTOR

    PS
    Raptor, I regret you each time I clean the motor from my robbe moskito xxl (really a pain to view the motor)

    old message i've posted on the newsgroup:

    Hello,

    So now many french flyer like me have the same problem, the woof and poof(tracking on only one side of the rotor, more than five centimeter, appear not always, only under low load around 0°) can even let the main blade hit the tail boom.

    I do the following on my raptor :

    - I change the wash out for a metal one (ace)
    - I change the swash plate for a metal one (not from ace, quick uk)
    - I change the main blade for fiber one (quick uk)
    -> woof and poof still remained


    I decide to add some weight in the canopy : install dual bat + another pack of battery (it may change eigen frequency of the whole system)
    -> woof and poof still remained

    Another flyer add a shim to remove the slope as described on many site
    -> woof and poof still remained but isn't anymore so enormous....not an 100% solution

    So i decide to change the main rotor grip + flat damper (not so expensive in fact)
    -> woof and poof still remained

    Delta 0
    -> less woof and poof but still present....

    One friend cure it: glue the rotor head with CA to the main mast !!!!!!


    But if it cured the problem, maybe all raptor flyer should call Ace and ask for A FREE UPGRADE SOLUTION (my raptor has less than a year)
    if not I will put a HEIM rotor head system instead of the ace.

    best regards
    cedric
  • Thunder_Tiger_Raptor_46

    null

    Equiped with

    Blades quick uk CFK blades
    cyclic NES 4000
    all others NES 4231
    gyro CSM 540 + JR 2700 G
    Motor OS46 SXH
    Radio Robbe/Futaba R149DP + Futaba FF8 + 2 * 1700mAh
      A lot of upgrade......

    Gallery

    Bought on ebay, january 2002
    DSC00346.JPG
    DSC00346.JPG

    nice only metal
    blade holder are
    missing

    DSC00348.JPG
    DSC00348.JPG
    DSC00352.JPG
    DSC00352.JPG
    DSC00354.JPG
    DSC00354.JPG
    DSC00365.JPG
    DSC00365.JPG

    Essential links

    R50-R30 Supplemental manual by Fritz The Cat http://members.telocity.com/fritzthecat/raptor50.html
    Raptor technique by Michael Prewitt (now own 2 R50) http://www.raptortechnique.com

    Flight log

  • Essentials links

    Modifications

    - Replace all ball link with schluter ball link (much more stronger)
    - Follow carefully the supplemental manual fron Fritz The Cat

    Equiped with

     
    Gyro: Gy 401 Futaba
    RX: Robbe/Futaba R149DP PCM 41MHz
    Pitch/Roll/Nick-Servo: Futaba 9002
    Tail-Servo: Futaba 9253
    Battery:
    Sanyo 3000 niMh, Sanyo 3000 niMh
    Blades: Fiber blade
    Other Futaba 9201 for throttle
    Motor Webra p5 AAR + Zimmermann exhaust
    Number of Crash  0

    Cost

     
    Description Price
    Tail rotor servo futaba 9253
    110â?¬
    Gyroscope futaba GY401
    224â?¬
    R60 Kit 790â?¬
    Blades GFK symetric 680mm 101â?¬
    Engine webra 61 p5 AAR 335â?¬
    Quick Uk swashplate blue
    66.5â?¬
    metal cooling fan TT (TTR PV0293)
    70$
    Fuel tank 550CC (TTR PV0310)
    19$
    Header tank w / holder (TTR PV0311)
    14$
    Carbon graphite base plate (70/90) 63$
    Metal Washout base only (TTR PV0291)
    21$
    Zimmermann exhaust 111â?¬
    Carbon tail servo kit 91â?¬
    Three futaba 9202 213â?¬
    9201 for gas  
    Ricks helicopter dampening system
    20$
    Lot of bin parts : tail case, frame, 2 skids... ???

    Total : 2248â?¬ bought 1175euro on ebay.de

    Raptor60_1.jpg Raptor60_2.jpg Raptor60_3.jpg Raptor60_5.jpg
    Some pictures of the prototyp and his designer.....Mr. Shigetada Taya
  • NOTE : The whole heli and especially the blade will be recoat with a purple color, because i can&39;t see the disk while flying...

    equipped with

    Futaba 149DP dual
    JR 8700G : tail super servo
    4000 : collective servo
    3 x 4231 : others servo
    Gyroscope CSM 540
    2 battery + dual switch
    2000 ma + 2000 ma
    Rossi 53
    Novarossi forward facing pipe
    NHP 62 cm Main blades
    NHP tail blade
    Gear upgrade
    Contest clutch
    Driven Tail

    More details the setup

    Links

    http://www.modelaviation.co.uk/heli/models/xxl/xxl.htm
    http://www.skylinemodels.com/FRANCE/Bob&39;s%20pages/Moskitos.htm Some tips in french from Bob Johnson


  • European mode (throttle on right stick)

    Channel 1 Channel 2 Channel 3 Channel 4
    Aileron Elevator Throttle Rudder
    Green Blue Multicolor Yellow
    REV REV REV NORMAL
  • bought on ebay.com for 650$ (Millwakee - Wisconsin)

    Gallery

  • Tail Rotor:
    Effects: Excessive slope in tail control system
    Possible causes:
    • The 2 pins CA3063 are worn (here after 54 flights)
      The plastic worn the metal, maybe due to speed and heat
      produc by high rpm rotation


    Solution? replace with new pin...


  • .. ..


    In Red, existing screw in ARF Kit
    In blue, missing screws. Hole is prepared for them but empty

    Do not forget to replace with the same "set screw"
    to avoid unbalanced tail rotor!


  • broke after a crash, main mast is not bent, but energy release through the frame
    . I do not want to disassemble the whole frame but fix it instead.


  • <>
    you can use this technique on all NON MOVING plastic parts, It is even better if you use clothes wires and glue them with CA (as best as carbon fibers)
     
       

  • Symptoms:
    • Starter coupling does not last long. (CA3018)
    • Hex adapter from the starter is also rounded
    Reasons
    • Starter coupling is made of a soft metal.
    • Hex starter is sliping at each start and round the starter coupling
    Cure:
    • Change the part CA3018 (new one will not last longer)
    • Buy a real hex adapter with a one way bearing like this one:

      Which will last forever, and throw away this kind:
    • Eventualyyou can buy the aftermarket part

      Some people has reported good result with it, but it is expensive. Buy this prt only if you want a metal clutch.
    Attention:
    •  

    • Swashplate, suppress a lot of slope found in the original one.
    • Metal fan, The Correct do not seem to have a better cooling effect, wait till QuickUk release a better version.
    • Metal clutch bell,
    • ...
    • Other upgrades are not recommended since in case of crash the energy will be release elsewhere, bend metal, stripped gears, break more.

    "Do not make the mistake of buying a cheap 30 size and adding $1000 of upgrades! buy a 60 size helicopter"(Curtis Youngblood). Upgrade page is HERE


  • Each week, you can add a drop oil in the red places, switch you helicopter on, and do not forget to move corresponding servo while adding oil.  I'm using stich machine white Vaseline.