• 90 deg. CCPMbyCK_

    When in MMS mode, move the link from the blue ball to the red ball. Do this on both side of the swashplate.
    All credit toCK_

    "As for the 90 deg. CCPM, here's why I did it. I started with the stock 120 deg. CCPM with 3 9202s. If I banged the cyclic around quickly there was a lot of collective interaction. Try it for yourself. Wiggle the cyclic and watch the antirotation pin and jump up and down 1/8". The interaction happens because the servos are slow and the front swash input has to move twice as fast as the two in the rear for a fore/aft cyclic movement because the front ball is twice the distance from the center as the rear balls. If you move the cyclic faster than the servos can move then all three servos will move the same speed (the max speed of the servo) and collective interaction will happen because the front swash input is not moving at twice the speed of the other two. Curtis' 140 deg. or whatever it is on the Vigor CS puts the front ball exactly the same fore/aft distance from the center as the two rear balls. This means that all three servos move the same speed for a fore/aft cyclic input. No interaction.

    If you use 90 deg. then fore/aft cyclic only moves one servo. There can never be interaction if only one servo is moving. Lateral cyclic will move two servos at equal and opposite speeds. No chance for servos to "run out of speed" like with 120 deg. I still get a little bit of interaction but it's nothing like I had with the stock setup.

    Like I said before, I still don't know why 120 deg. is pretty much the standard and 90 deg. is rarely used when 120 deg. has much more collective interaction. Anyone got any ideas?
    Great response by Dr.Ben

    "Your info about the 140 degree CCPM is entirely valid. One drawback of having the single ele input up from is that the swash is less stable. 120/140 d. CCPM surrounds the entire swash with support. There is also a control power component here. One reason the big gun CCPM models such as the Fury and Vigor CS can pull such abrupt maneuvers is the combined input of the servos - two for any roll command, THREE for pitch command, and three for a collective command. 90 degree CCPM takes two servos out of the power equation on the pitch axis. I realize the control power issue is of less consequence in a 30 sized bird, but you asked why manufacturers don't employ 90 CCPM more commonly.

    Much of the interaction you saw is a direct result of the somewhat slow analog 9202's (still a hell of a good servo) and not the 120 d. CCPM per se. If you go to a upper or lower collective command and input a hard over roll input, you will note a pretty good collective interaction because the servo arm on one of the two roll servos is approaching centerline and thus moving its pushrod further, while the other servo arm is retreating from centerline and moving the pushrod less. This differential phenomena is present in all CCPM models with rotary servos and is somewhat minimized by using servo wheels large enough to avoid movement a large number of degrees off centerline. A linear output servo is the only way to avoid the problem completely; we ain't there, yet <g>. The Caliber 30 system might work a bit better better if the bellcranks were designed to create less swash travel per unit of servo movement (meaning equal ball input points on both arms of the bellcrank), and then larger servo wheels were used to get the collective/cyclic range needed (less differential effect).

    Ben Minor

  • 1400$ electricity yearly!!!!
    "A few weeks ago, we started investigating the possibility of putting Linux on an XBOX. We played with some ideas in our heads, a render farm, a cheap office computer or a distributed crypto platform, just to start. The idea required a little bit of elbow grease, a mod chip, Linux and a bunch of free time. " MORE on Anandtech

  • I recommend not to mount one! sometimes it is better to always remove the can discover mechanical bug and do a quick check before each new flight.

    cheap way by elta68 better looking by CK_
  • kyosho_caliber_30

    Actually on

  • An original way to mount the sensorbysgunn911 
    correct cooling fan
    global view
    sensor mounted

    "Finding out that the GV-1 Brackets were not meant to be used with a Caliber 30's clutch hub being directly in the way, I decided to get creative.

    This worked out perfect, and is probably better that the normal installation method. I used a cooling fan from Correct, (item 416-141) and used the rim around the top to install the magnet. I then mounted the sensor on the TOP of the fan facing down and drilled a hole and shaped it to fit the sensor.

    The sensor now sits above the fan facing down, and is receiving at a 97% (which is very good). It also is mounted to the frame instead of a long bracket, and doesn't move around. This method also makes for a much cleaner look, as there is no brackets used to mount.

    All credits to sgunn911, his gallery at runryder and website CUSTOM-RC.COM
      "Installing the GV-1 sensor on the Caliber 30 can be tricky because the fan, where the magnets are mounted, is above the clutch. I've seen many modified brackets on the web to 'bend' the sensor around the clutch. However, I found that..."
    more on his site

  • You can insert some thin shimsbetween the engine and the engine mounts upper holes.(red points) This make the engine lean slightly forward and make the belt go lower down on the clutch bell.
  • kyosho_caliber_30

    Best RC shops for buying Kyosho Caliber parts

    I've already order 3 times without any problem from France.
    Ask them to underestimate price packet, it works!
    You may want to read this page to have more informations about my experience with them.
    I've already order 2 times without any problem from France.
    Ask them to underestimate price packet, it works!
    You may want to read this page to have more informations about my experience
  • kyosho_caliber_30

    If you have a problem with this helicopter or with another heli brand, I recommend you to visit the site. Most of the problem has been already solve for the raptor 30. Since all heli share the same design (and problems more or less), you can find many tips and idea for your heli.

    Equiped with

    Gyro: CSM 540 Heading lock
    RX: Robbe/Futaba R149DP PCM 41MHz
    Pitch/Roll/Nick-Servo: JR NES 4231, JR NES 4231, JR NES 4231
    Tail-Servo: Super Servo JR 8700G numeric
    Battery: Sanyo 1200CR, Sanyo 1200 CR
    Blades: SAB 300 carbon fibre
    Other Futaba 3001 for throttle
    Motor OS32 SX-H + Hatori 3d pipe 350
    Number of Crash
    Flight log click here


  • kyosho_caliber_30


    17.08.2002 Lost 2 screws in manual page 7, stage 952.
    24.08.2002 Add a dual battery system for more safety. see Caliber Tips page
    10.09.2002 Run 8 liter in it in 3 weeks, you can flight 23min with a lot of
               fuel reserve before landing ! my swashplate has already a lot of slope
           (only making normal flight : mostly flying around)   
    burn approx. 18 tanks
    13.10.2002 3 tanks 50 min
    19.10.2002 4 tanks with the new Hatori 3D pipe, lot of power,
               Danger ! rubber was so small that the pipe was going to slipe
               out the rubber ! (caliber was oily) no damage (I was lucky)
    20.10.2002 3 tanks
    23.11.2002 3 tanks (3 weeks of non interrupted rain !), add a header tank.
    29.11.2002 3 tanks 43 min idle-up1, still raining the whole week without interruption...
    01.12.2002 1 tank
    22.02.2003 2 tanks 30min - 6°C outside, sunny day
    28.02.2003 5 tanks 65min - 13°C outside, sunny day
    09.03.2003 1 tank
    22.03.2003 3 tanks 14°C outside, sunny day
    29.03.2003 3 tanks 22°C, sunny day with clouds, fly only half a tank then crash :-( mechanical problem still unknow
    19.07.2003 1 tank replace pinion 96885 (was damaged)
    Fr 25.07.2003 0.2 tanks 28°C some clouds and wind, heli is too responsive on cyclic, decide to stop and go back to the bench
    Tue 13.08.2003 1 tanks 27°C 8h10AM to 11h00AM
                buy some parts and disassemble a fully equipped caliber, now caliber 1 has:
            - quickuk blue swashplatte
            - correct metal center hub
            - correct metal main blade grip
            - correct metal arms and flybar control
            - SAB 300 carbon fibre blade
    --------------- Using reflex simulator as main tools for practicing --------------------
    Sat 27.09.2003 1 Tanks 16h30 to 19h00 cloudy and start raining 19°C. pratice, heli is too responsive, need exponential now

  • kyosho_caliber_30

    If you have a problem with this helicopter or with another heli brand, I recommend you to visit the site. Most of the problem has been already solve for the raptor 30. Since all heli share the same design (more or less), you can find many tips and idea for your heli.

    My kyosho caliber 30 n°2, 22 March 2003

    Equiped with

    Gyro: GY401 Heading lock
    RX: Graupner XM16 FM 41Mhz
    Pitch/Roll/Nick-Servo: Futaba 3001 - Futaba 3001 - Futaba 3001
    Tail-Servo: Futaba s9250 numeric high speed
    Battery: Sanyo 1700 SCR, Sanyo 1700 SCR
    Blades: wood stock blades
    Other Graupner C5007 for throttle
    Motor OS32 SX-H + Hatori Mufler 337
    Number of Crash
    Flight Log click here



  • kyosho_caliber_30


    18.10.2002 bought by a friend, he never do a hover or finish break in ! he decide to leave hobby after 2 consecutive crash.
    20.10.2002 1 tank finishing break in, already a lot of power, heli is very responsive (has still original paddle and not raptor one)
    21.11.2002 replace with raptor 30 paddle, add raptor 30 canopy mount, add a header tank.
    01.12.2002 2 tanks, crashed because of a brain problem while in front,it is really time to learn nose-in....
    08.03.2003 1 tank, windy 13°C , decide not to empty the tanks, the heli was shaging, reduce gyro gain, land and go back to bench. Found Tail belt to be loose.
    09.03.2003 3 tanks, windy 15°C, the last flight, the blade heat schrink become loose in flight, it made a lot of noise, but i land safely
    14.03.2003 1 tank (17 min), too windy 8°C, RAS except wind and gust, its dangerous to continue
    21.03.2003 found origin of tail wagging, tail servo was loose, replace all 4 screws
    22.03.2003 1 tank (20.5 min), 14°C sunny day, strong vibration, searching cause
    29.03.2003 3 tanks 22°C, sunny day with some clouds, change blade, no vibrations, fly with training skids only nose-in.
    01.05.2003 3 tanks 26°C, some clouds, learn nose-in
    12.07.2003 4 tanks 30°C. some clouds, orientation training  low altitude to recover sensation after a break of 2 months
    13.07.2003 1 tank 32°C. too much wind (strong gusts)
    19.07.2003 replace CSM400 because of drifts, tail servo go to full position on one side!!! replace with a GY401
    20.07.2003 4 tanks 38°C!!!. start at 8:00AM finish 11:00AM, start to wind, fly 2 tanks nose-in.
    Fri 25.07.2003 4 tanks 28°C some clouds and wind, heli fly great with new gyro, battery need to be cycled, last only 2 flight
    Sat 26.07.2003 3 tanks 29°C cloudy, no wind, fly one tanks nose in.
                   replace the second battery with a one of same capacity (1700mAh NiCad) as stated on battery clinic
    Sun 03.08.2003 5 tanks 25°C (40+22+35 min) 8:00AM finish 11:00AM, only nosein and transition 180°, training stick, we expected 38°C today!!!
                   2 tanks 30°C 19h30 to 21h only nosein and transition 360° and more! cool
    Sun 11.08.2003 3 Tanks 29°C (26+19+22 min) 19h30PM to 21h30PM only nosein and transition, had problems to fire up engine
    Mon 12.08.2003 3 tanks 30°C 7h50AM to 10h00AM only only nosein and transition
    Tue 13.08.2003 3 tanks 27°C 8h10AM to 11h00AM only nosein and transition, made my first 3 clockwise turn nosein! great
                buy some parts and disassemble a fully equipped caliber, now caliber 2 has a correct swashplatte and a
                metal throtle arm.
    --------------- Using reflex simulator as main tools for practicing --------------------
    Sat 20.09.2003 3 tanks 24°C 18h00 to 19h30 only nose in hover and transition, first nose in translation, slow and fast eight
    Sun 21.09.2003 2 tanks 20°C 09h10 to 10h30 only nose in hover and transition, first nose in translation, slow and fast eight
    Sat 27.09.2003 2 Tanks 16h30 to 19h00 cloudy and start raining 19°C. training
    Sat 19.10.2003 3 Tanks 15h30 to 17h30 sunny but cold: 12°C training
    Thu 20.05.2003 2 Tanks (15, 21 min) 16h30 to 18h sunny but a lot of wind: 27°C, nose in. I dontlose experience from last year.
    Sun 25.07.2004 5 tanks (22,25,22,23,20) from 10h30 to 14h no wind sunny 28C  

  • Caliber 30 upgrades parts fromCorrect
    courtesy authorization of company Correct
    Please note that I have no connection with the compagny Correct, simply I find their upgrades beautiful and want to
    show them here.

    approx. 200â?¬

    approx. 100â?¬

    approx. 65â?¬

    approx. 65â?¬

    approx. 65â?¬

    approx. 200â?¬
    Mail of the compagny Correct: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
    Their Homepage:
  • <>
    The default muffler is great! It is not mandatory to change it, since it performed quite well. I buy the caliber 2 second hand together with these 2 mufflers, so why not mount them?
    Hatori 3d pipe 350
    A must if you run with high nitro percentage.
    Require to use the additional parts provided in kit.
    Hatori Mufler 337
    Not really interesting compare to the default muffler, except that it is lighter. Replace the default muffler with no change.

  • "Take out your one way bearing in the counter shaft bearing and clean it out real good. I had my one way bearning start sliping on me this weekend and at one point it completly let go and I had to auto down. When it had happend I couldn't tell what was wrong (engine still running) but I had a dramatic loss of head speed and barely got it down safely. I had thought that the main belt had broken. After inspecting why the engine speed would shoot up (no load) I could see the counter gear free wheeling around the one way bearning. After pulling the assembly out of the frame I could not get it to let go just by twisting it. I just replaced with a friends counter gear assembly and did not bother w/ the original but it is my suspision that it is either dirty or oily and needs to be cleaned out real good. I would imagine that this could pertain to the same problem you are having only the bearing is not fully letting go. It is probably breifly letting go then re-engagin again causing the tail to loose some holding power. I think it is a good idea after 2 gallons or so to disassemble the counter gear assembly and clean the one way bearing before it causes you to loose your heli in flight."by ??

    • Verify that the tail drive pulley (red part 934 & 965) is not loose (1degree or 2degrees rotation is enough to create noise!) on the tail pulley holder (blue part 935). Disassemble the red part and look if there is not too much black dust on the blue part (due to rubbing). If the loosiness is not too big, you can clean and CA glue the part together or replace the part 934.

    glue part 934 on 935 with epoxy or CA glue.

    • Can be a bad pinion? (not the case on my caliber n°1)

    better expalnation:

    "Tail clicking noise occurs when the pulley has worn on the shaft. check out the other forum for pictures. you will need a new pulley and then have to glue the pulley to the shaft for a once and for all solution. easy way to confirm this is to hold the head, then try and move the tail rotor. if the tail rotor spins, even slightly, the shaft has begun wearing. You should only feel the resistance of the belt, and no backlash. As for twitching, this often occurs when the tail rod guides are not alligned PERFECTLY, which causes some friction on the rod. The gyro is fighting the friction by commanding more rudder input until the servo overcomes the friction and suddenly drives the tail too far, then the gyro counters this action. the result is the twitching. Both very common problems on the caliber, and should be the first thing to inspect." by vortexgen

  • Symptoms:
    • While in flight, brutal loss of power that force you to do an autorotation.
    • Engine RPM increase brutaly.
    • clutch sliping:
    • OR It is causes by stripped one-way bearing
    • Check the liner on the clutch, if it's worn replace it,
    • Be sure there is no fuel residue on the liner.
    • Change the one way bearing
    • Change the cluctch.
    • Check the clutch itself, all that slipping=overheating it may need to be replaced as well.....

  • Kyosho part CA3035
    Some parts right out the bag are prone to break. Verify yours and replace them wth a raptor 30 if needed!

    "Almost directly accross from where the set screw is installed was an imperfection in the aluminum.
    I pulled on the part with my hands and could spread the piece and it proceeded to break in two.
    I also tried the same thing on the part with no visible problems and it would not budge." by choppengruven

    Discover by in France byClaudeandLaurent Lombard

    QuickUk sell this one.
    Thunder Tiger PV0018
    Left side: unknow mast stopper
    Right side: genuine kyosho part
    Which one do you prefer?

  •  Overall view of my 1st caliber

    24.08.2002 Add a dual battery system for more safety. I have no heli with only one battery. Here is why:

    Problems 1 battery pack 2 packs +
    2 packs +
    Additional cost of system reference + 55€ + 180€
    Open circuit between battery and switch's pack Failure Redundant Redundant
    Open circuit in one of the pack Failure Redundant Redundant
    Battery short circuit in one pack Failure Failure Redundant
    One pack not fully charged Failure Redundant Redundant
    Switch failure (assumes between RX and backup sys) Failure Redundant Failure
    Battery connector from backup system to the receiver Failure Redundant Failure

    Build yourself a dual switch

  • Since I have a lot of raptor 30 bin parts, I will replace all parts on the caliber with them...- Replace paddles with raptor 30 paddles, done on 25.06.2002 -> this suppress completely flutter ! 1 day of hard 3D without any problem
    - Add longer tail boom suppport,
    - After a crash I will certainly replace landing skids with the raptor 30 landing skids since they are more flexible (loose crash ;-)).
    - The phillips head screws used are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard). There are no substitutes. Regular metric drivers will not work. So it is a good idea to replace them all with allen screw before stripping original head screws (they are made of a very cheap metal)
    - Add an air filter, the engine sucks air from the airflow coming from the fan, this reduce possibility of dust entering in the carb.
    - You can use raptor 30 main rotor blade.
    - If you use the kyosho canopy, do not apply the decals (it is really a pain to apply them), but sligthly sand the screen and paint it instead.

  • Symptoms:
    • Engine overheating
    • Loss of power even if the motor smoke a lot

    Why? it really depends...

    • Where You are the desert? do not forget that some gyro may have trouble too and may drift a lot if the day is too warm (more than 35°C). In altitude, less oxygen -> more nitro
    • The percentage of nitro/oil the more oil/nitro the cooler the engine will run -> Attention here in europe, nitromethan can cost an arm and and leg -> 30euro/liter !!! at 15%nitro. I personaly usually fly with 1% nitro! enough for learning.
    • You engine is not correctly tuned, ask a better pilot to help You set the engine. Your engine MUST smoke
    • If nothing of the above aply, You may want to try the mods below


    • Change the cooling FAN for a QuickUk
    • Change the cooling FAN for a Correct upgrade.

    Look below for others...
    Le Caliber 30 de Patrick Magnaudet
    US.Champagne/s seine Aéromodélisme

    Shown on a raptor 50, but can be done on a caliber as well

  • This suppress wooble, even down to 1200 rpm. As usual, do this mod only if your heli encounter wooble, mine never develop this.

    "Flip the washout, grips, flybar control arms, and the bell mixing arms. If you use the stock washout you need to remove the pins and mount them the other way. I used a Freya washout slider from my spares box. The Freya washout is better because it has a brass bushing in the slider. If you use the Freya washout, remove the washer on the pivot bolt and replace with an M3 plain nut for a spacer to retain proper phasing to the swashplate. You will also have to use longer screws. The balls on the bell mixer must be swapped to the other side of the arm. Keep the bell mixer drooping down but flip them the other way on the flybar. If you want to know how this works read the post "Delta" in the main discussion but be prepared for some heavy reading and some head scratching. Thanks to Wayne Mann for the idea."Text by CK_
    Go and search for "flip the head caliber 30"

    Another version by Harrier
    Basically, the Caliber 30 has issues with wobbling at low rpm (you'll probably experience this around 1st gallon of fuel). The problem has to do with the fact that the Delta angle on the C30 head needs to be changed (there's a huge write up on that on - )
    Anyways, you must reverse the linkages on the head to eliviate this problem. Though intimidating, its really not that hard (I'm a total heli beginner and did it in 2 hours) Once it's done, you shouldn't experience any other issues with wobbles. I had a great guy on here (FLASHOVER) help me out, and I'll transcribe what he wrote me so you can understand how to do it. There are also pics to look at the finished product in my gallery.

    Here's how FLASH walked me through it:

    Step 1
    Take the head off leaving the rotor grips and linkages in tack on the swashplate for now.

    Step 2
    Now that you have the head off, we are now going to work on the block ass. #'s 912, and 872. First take off # 872 and set that aside.Than the block, take it off the main shaft you need to notice that the wash out arms are in the block on the left side. Take off the wash out arms and set them aside. Now measure how far the pins are sticking out off the block and right that down.Than take a small set of vice grips and take out the pins from the block. Try not to make deep cuts in the pins from the vice grips. Now that you have the pins out use the existing holes as a guide for the drill bit. Go at a steady pace when drilling the holes and make sure to try and drill straight. After the holes are drilled take the pins and you are going to place the pins in the block on the flipped side. Remember not to put them in the same holes as before. When you look at the block the wash out arms should be on the right side. To put the pins in the block it is going to take a little hammering. It should be tight when putting them in.

    Step 3
    The next thing that we are going to work on is The flybar arangement! Make sure that you keep all of your parts seperated.

    Now if you look at the head you can see your Hiller control arms 879 and the mixing arms # 884. They need to be flipped also. What we are going to do is work this one side at a time. This way you won't get to confused with the arangement.Ok first thing is too take off a paddle, it doesn't matter whitch side you start with just pick a side. There is a hex kit with are calibers that go to the different screws make sure you use the one that goes with the kit. Now there is a little hex srew in the paddle were the spindle shaft (870) enters the paddle. Unscrew that, than turn the paddle counter clockwise to unscrew the paddle from the shaft! Don't worry about the measurement of both sides we will work on that later. Try to keep the hex srews to the corasponding parts.
    Ok now you will have to be careful and take out the hex screw to the hiller control arm. You can take this off now and set it aside. The next item # 884 mixing arm has two little black washers, one on each side so be careful not to loose those they are very important and people have had problems with there chopper because they didn't remember to put those back in. Now, you don't need to set it down because what you are going to do is flip it around. If you are looking straight foward at the head ass. you should see that there are three linkage holes on the left side now and the one linkage hole is on the right.
    Now that the mixing arm is done you can put the hiller control arm back on. You need to have locktight, I don't think that I mentioned it sorry. But every heli pilot owns alot of locktight, loose bolts are not are friend they are the enemy. Ok so all of the ass. bolts need locktight on them, the blue type is better because you might need to replace parts and the red locktight is too strong so you may end up stripping something, not good. Allright the mixing arm and hiller arm need to be flush with the head, no slop ok. This side is going to be the guide side and everything else will be adjusted from this. After you have completed this side do the other side. But don't put the paddles back on leave them off. When it is all said and done take a flat ruller and measure from the hiller control arm to the tip of the shaft. Than measure the other side. You should get the same measurement
    if not get it to be equal on both sides.

    Step 4
    Now that all of the parts have been changed over it is time to put it all back together. Offcource first thing to go back on is the slide block. After that goes on put the collar back on but do not put locktight or tighten her down just yet. With her on and the bolts snug move the block up into the collar with your hand. See if you have any binding.If there is binding just correct the problem to whare you can get freeplay. My helo was binding a little I just used the vice grips to push them in or out. Remember we like are machines to be smooth as silk.

    Next on the agenda is to put the head back on. You can use locktight on that bolt and make sure that she is tight, we don't want her to get loose.

    Now the fun part, with the blades off flip the grip to the other side. Remember we start with one side than work over to the other side. Now use your locktight and screw that ball link in the last whole counting from the left, so it should be right next to the heller control arm. Than take the link from the grip and snap it into that ball link. Now take anouther ball link and again use locktight and screw it into the very first whole starting from the left. Now take that link and snap it from there to the swashplate. Everything is 90 degrees from each other ok. Now do that same process to the other side.

    Part three to the process is to connect the washout arms.
    Before connecting them to the block, we need to putt the ball links on. Lets start with the outside one starting from the left. Instead of the ball on the outside, it will be facing to the inside closes't to the main shaft. On the other side flip the washout arm link # 916 to whare it is facing down. Now use locktight and screw the washout unit to the block. The washout link that you just flipped down will be on your right side when bolting the washout unit to the block. Now you can connect the washout link to the swashplate 90 degrees from the first link that you just put on. Ok now do the same to the other side.

    Now you told me that one of the hiller control arms was locktighted good we will work from that one. Take your heli and put it up on a table were you can look at the head ass. at eye level. Now go ahead and screw a paddle back on to the shaft all the way down. Use locktight and put the hex screw in its slot. Now look right at the aft tip of the paddle and the ball tip of the hiller control arm. Get that paddle to match that arm as perfect as your naked eye can get it. Be very careful not to bump your adjustment and tighten the hex screw really firm. Now match the other hiller control arm to the one we just adjusted. And now put on the other paddle, but this time when you screw the paddle on make sure that both sides are of equal lenght. I measured mine from inside the hiller control arm tip to the inside tip of the paddle. You should be able to get them really close if not dead on.
    Now tighten that hex screw again being very careful not to bump your measurment. Ok now connect those links to the swashplate.
    All right last things!!!
    Ok now if you were to look down from the top of the head we need to aline the spindle shaft with the inside ball links of the swashplate. Use your fingers and move the block and collar to whare the shaft is right on top of one of the inner swashplate ball links. When that is good without moving it out of allignment move the swashplate by hand up and down. With the swashplate all the way down tighten the collar to whare there is just a little bit of pin left in the collar slotts. Make sure to just tighten one down than take the other one out carefully and put locktight on it. Than put that in and tighten it all the way down. Than you can do the same to the other side. After that is complete you are done with the head flip.
    The only things left to do are to put the blades on and set up the radio. It can be a little tricky since you had flipped the head. Basically remember that the Pitch direction has changed most importantly so change this in your radio.
    Hope this helps!

  has very good pictures on the result.

  • The frame is weak in places and needs some bracing when using the CCPM option to hold the servo tray from flexing.
    These arrangements eliminate the play on the cyclic/collective controls and gives a more rigid frame.

    Solution 1 by CK_ Solution 2 by d-n-jensen Solution 3 by Dominic Girard
    Braces under the radio tray, it's homepage is at:
    Tray Flex solution Picture
    by John, website
  • It can be very dangerous to have your swashplatte being caught while flying by the correct FT canopy (fiber). You will have to remove a small amount of material in order to fly safe. (use a dremel)

  • Mark the edge of the black plastic part with a pen
    before removing
    Thunder Tiger recommend you to glue your blade with epoxy glue.
    Kyosho say nothing in the manual about this subject. I agree that
    the Caliber 30 has 4 screws vs only 2 for the raptor 30....but
    This mods increase security for sure and cost nothing :
    • Remove the blade covering under the plastic blade grips :
      trace an outline around the grips with a pen.
    • Then remove the grips.
    • Carefully cut the plastic wrap away with a cutter.
      Be carefull not to cut into the wood !!
    • Do this to both sides and use some epoxy to glue the grips on.
  • Hacker B50-10XL Motor/Kontronik heat sink
    Kontronick 60-10-24 ESC
    24- 3300nimh cells
    By CryHavoc on
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