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Posts Tagged 'rchelicopter'

My new Toy: T-REX 450SE V2

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Category: Electric
Published on Sunday, 17 August 2008 00:00
Written by Administrator
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trex450sev2

I've paid 300€ (470 CHF) for my new baby:  ALIGN TREX 450SE V2

I hope to be able to fly this 450 size not far away from my apartment in Zurich.
It should be quiet and small enough to fly in a park with nobody around...at dusk

My previous experience with an electric helicopter was in 2004 (eRaptor here). For the moment
I try to practice 1 hours per day in reflex before going to the field.

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Read more: My new Toy: T-REX 450SE V2

.50 Conversion

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Category: Kyosho Caliber 30 - Upgrades
Published on Thursday, 26 August 2004 00:00
Written by Administrator
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The Conversion kit contains:
  • Longer Tail Pipe (anodized blue)
  • Longer Tail belt
  • Solid engine mounts (anodized blue) in 2 parts
  • Clutch shaft to suit 46-50 engine.
Where to Buy it?
You also need to have:
  • 600mm Main Rotor Blades.
  • 46-50 size engine like TT50 or OS50 (<- recommended because of consistency)
  • 46-50 size muffler, tuned pipe
Attention:
  • The conversion put a lot more stress on the rotor head, so check after each flight the plastic main grips but you may want to acquire a metal head from Quick-uk or Correct

It is recommended to have the following upgrades:

  • Metal clutch as it may disperse better the heat produce by the slipping and is less prone to deformation than the plastic clutch.
  • A better cooling fan like the one from Quick-uk or Correct because the .50 create a lot more heat.
  • Radio flexing mods and good servo to have a tighter control system.
  • Use a governor to avoid rotor overspeeding during descent or when the pitch is near 0°
  • Aside from a metal swashplate and washout...
  • Fuel consumption is 55% more than a .30
Conclusions

If you do not stress your heli with hard 3D, this mod is useless and the total cost of conversion (if you have no metal upgrades) can decide you to buy a real .50 class like the Raptor 50 or even a .60 class.

Reviews:
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What to lubrificate?

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Category: Kyosho Caliber 30 - Maintenance
Published on Thursday, 26 August 2004 00:00
Written by Administrator
Hits: 5891


Each week, you can add a drop oil in the red places, switch you helicopter on, and do not forget to move corresponding servo while adding oil.  I'm using stich machine white Vaseline.
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Starter coupling wear out the hex ball and the socket

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Category: Kyosho Caliber 30 - Troubleshootings
Published on Thursday, 26 August 2004 00:00
Written by Administrator
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Symptoms:
  • Starter coupling does not last long. (CA3018)
  • Hex adapter from the starter is also rounded
Reasons
  • Starter coupling is made of a soft metal.
  • Hex starter is sliping at each start and round the starter coupling
Cure:
  • Change the part CA3018 (new one will not last longer)
  • Buy a real hex adapter with a one way bearing like this one:

    Which will last forever, and throw away this kind:
  • Eventualy you can buy the aftermarket part

    Some people has reported good result with it, but it is expensive. Buy this prt only if you want a metal clutch.
Attention:
  •  
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90 deg. CCPM

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Category: Kyosho Caliber 30 - Rotor Head
Published on Thursday, 26 August 2004 00:00
Written by Administrator
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90 deg. CCPM by CK_

When in MMS mode, move the link from the blue ball to the red ball. Do this on both side of the swashplate.
All credit to CK_

"As for the 90 deg. CCPM, here's why I did it. I started with the stock 120 deg. CCPM with 3 9202s. If I banged the cyclic around quickly there was a lot of collective interaction. Try it for yourself. Wiggle the cyclic and watch the antirotation pin and jump up and down 1/8". The interaction happens because the servos are slow and the front swash input has to move twice as fast as the two in the rear for a fore/aft cyclic movement because the front ball is twice the distance from the center as the rear balls. If you move the cyclic faster than the servos can move then all three servos will move the same speed (the max speed of the servo) and collective interaction will happen because the front swash input is not moving at twice the speed of the other two. Curtis' 140 deg. or whatever it is on the Vigor CS puts the front ball exactly the same fore/aft distance from the center as the two rear balls. This means that all three servos move the same speed for a fore/aft cyclic input. No interaction.

If you use 90 deg. then fore/aft cyclic only moves one servo. There can never be interaction if only one servo is moving. Lateral cyclic will move two servos at equal and opposite speeds. No chance for servos to "run out of speed" like with 120 deg. I still get a little bit of interaction but it's nothing like I had with the stock setup.

Like I said before, I still don't know why 120 deg. is pretty much the standard and 90 deg. is rarely used when 120 deg. has much more collective interaction. Anyone got any ideas?"		 Great response by Dr.Ben

"Your info about the 140 degree CCPM is entirely valid. One drawback of having the single ele input up from is that the swash is less stable. 120/140 d. CCPM surrounds the entire swash with support. There is also a control power component here. One reason the big gun CCPM models such as the Fury and Vigor CS can pull such abrupt maneuvers is the combined input of the servos - two for any roll command, THREE for pitch command, and three for a collective command. 90 degree CCPM takes two servos out of the power equation on the pitch axis. I realize the control power issue is of less consequence in a 30 sized bird, but you asked why manufacturers don't employ 90 CCPM more commonly.

Much of the interaction you saw is a direct result of the somewhat slow analog 9202's (still a hell of a good servo) and not the 120 d. CCPM per se. If you go to a upper or lower collective command and input a hard over roll input, you will note a pretty good collective interaction because the servo arm on one of the two roll servos is approaching centerline and thus moving its pushrod further, while the other servo arm is retreating from centerline and moving the pushrod less. This differential phenomena is present in all CCPM models with rotary servos and is somewhat minimized by using servo wheels large enough to avoid movement a large number of degrees off centerline. A linear output servo is the only way to avoid the problem completely; we ain't there, yet <g>. The Caliber 30 system might work a bit better better if the bellcranks were designed to create less swash travel per unit of servo movement (meaning equal ball input points on both arms of the bellcrank), and then larger servo wheels were used to get the collective/cyclic range needed (less differential effect).

Ben Minor"


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Repairing the radio tray

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Category: Kyosho Caliber 30 - Repairing
Published on Thursday, 26 August 2004 00:00
Written by Administrator
Hits: 4222
<>
you can use this technique on all NON MOVING plastic parts, It is even better if you use clothes wires and glue them with CA (as best as carbon fibers)
 
   

Links to other tips page

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Category: Kyosho Caliber 30
Published on Thursday, 26 August 2004 00:00
Written by Administrator
Hits: 3768

Quest for the missing screws

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Category: Kyosho Caliber 30 - Frame
Published on Thursday, 26 August 2004 00:00
Written by Administrator
Hits: 5527


.. ..


In Red, existing screw in ARF Kit
In blue, missing screws. Hole is prepared for them but empty

Do not forget to replace with the same "set screw"
to avoid unbalanced tail rotor!

Danger part ca3035 main mast stopper caliber 30

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Category: Kyosho Caliber 30 - Security
Published on Thursday, 26 August 2004 00:00
Written by Administrator
Hits: 6045


Kyosho part CA3035
Some parts right out the bag are prone to break. Verify yours and replace them wth a raptor 30 if needed!

"Almost directly accross from where the set screw is installed was an imperfection in the aluminum.
I pulled on the part with my hands and could spread the piece and it proceeded to break in two.
I also tried the same thing on the part with no visible problems and it would not budge." by choppengruven

Discover by in France by Claude and Laurent Lombard
QuickUk sell this one.
Thunder Tiger PV0018
Left side: unknow mast stopper
Right side: genuine kyosho part
Which one do you prefer?

Engine overheating cure

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Category: Kyosho Caliber 30 - Motor
Published on Thursday, 26 August 2004 00:00
Written by Administrator
Hits: 7952


Symptoms:
  • Engine overheating
  • Loss of power even if the motor smoke a lot

Why? it really depends...

  • Where You are living....in the desert? do not forget that some gyro may have trouble too and may drift a lot if the day is too warm (more than 35°C). In altitude, less oxygen -> more nitro
  • The percentage of nitro/oil the more oil/nitro the cooler the engine will run -> Attention here in europe, nitromethan can cost an arm and and leg -> 30euro/liter !!! at 15%nitro. I personaly usually fly with 1% nitro! enough for learning.
  • You engine is not correctly tuned, ask a better pilot to help You set the engine. Your engine MUST smoke
  • If nothing of the above aply, You may want to try the mods below
Cures

(expensives)

  • Change the cooling FAN for a QuickUk
  • Change the cooling FAN for a Correct upgrade.

Look below for others...


http://uscaero77.free.fr/_helico/caliber30/
Le Caliber 30 de Patrick Magnaudet
US.Champagne/s seine Aéromodélisme

Shown on a raptor 50, but can be done on a caliber as well


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