En fait le draganflyer est vraiment très facile a piloter et très stable en vol. Les seules précautions à prendre:
donc, au niveau des rotors, je pense en mouler en carbon sur la base des originaux que j'ai eu en mauvais etat..........mais ca sera easy a mouler donc pas de pb.....
Si on a de l'expérience avec le moulage, c'est tout à fait possible. Attention si en vol on sent que la gammelle n'est pas très loin...couper les gazs, cela limitera les dégats. Les pales d'origines, explosent et sous certaines conditions, peuvent se réparer à la cyanocrilate (Colle instantanée).
par contre c'est au niveau des moteurs que j'aurai besoin de tes lumieres, d'apres ce que j'ai vu, le "gearing" est approximativement 1/5 et des
poussieres, ca correspond donc par exemple a des systemes de propulsion "eps350" ou "eps300" de chez GWS avec le gearing "C" le pb vient des moteurs en fait !va jeter un oeil chez "aircraft world " :
les rapports d'engrenages (gearing) sont les suivants:
Quels sont les moteurs employes a l'origine?
Les moins cher qui existent....des Mabuchi S0, à savoir des speeds 280
combien l'electronique peut supporter, j'ai peur en fait de griller la platine...a ma place que ferais tu?
D'après Mike Dammar, le concepteur avec qui j'ai échangé pas mal de mails en 2002, Il est possible d'utiliser la même platine (Draganflyer) pour le draganflyer XP pour peu que l'on ajoute des dissipateur. Les Transistors d'origines IRLZ44N sont donnés à 55V, Rds(on)=0.022ohm, Id=47A donc il y a de la marge.
ensuite en ce qui concerne la connectique, je n'ai pas le "harness" qui permet le cablage, connais tu une alternative ? un plan de cablage ? des dimensions exactes? du centre du cerveau au centre du rotor : combien de cm ?
tous les conseils sont les bienvenus....
Le frame de remplacement carbone, est vraiment bien fait, il m'a couté $80, les dimensions du frame de la version 4: distance de l'axe d'un moteur au centre de la platine électronique: 20cm. Je peut mettre plus de photos de mon roswell en ligne si des détails t'interessent.
et au fait, comment ca vole?on peut faire quoi avec ce machin? merci par avance !
Cela vole dans un mouchoir de poche, a haute altitude, il est possible de faire un looping, c'est un engin un peu bruyant, du fait des engrenages...Il faut absolument utiliser des accus Li-ion sinon la durée de vol est décevante: 4 minutes maximum. voire l'artcile sur ce site sur l'utilisation de Li-ion.
j'attends de tes nouvelles des que possible..c'est tellement rare de trouver des personnes parlant francais ayant cet engin!
Je vais essayer d'étendre cette page, pour répondre au maximum de question que les futurs acquéreurs/bricoleurs se posent...Si vous avez un problème, utiliser le menu sous "Contact me" pour me joindre
|Mike Dammar has one more time done it! the greatest innovation for new comers and pilot enthousiast:|
The Draganflyer V Ti R/C Helicopter is a 3 heading lock gyro stabilized helicopter now with 7 electronic sensors to detect the horizon and assist the pilot if he get stressed to much. An optional Eyecam Wireless Video System, is also available in a package at $999.95 (780â?¬). Trust me it is one of the best aircraft design of the last 20 years. More details here
European mode (throttle on right stick)
|Channel 1||Channel 2||Channel 3||Channel 4|
Can be bought at www.draganfly.com for 80â¬ + shipping costs.
|The original frame is weak in many places and was designed more for indoor flying. A lot of people work on the Roswell Flyer and they all designed their own frame using carbon pipes. I decided to buy the carbon upgrade frame. As usual, all models: Roswell Flyer (sold out), HMX4 (copy of previous), Dragnaflyer are sharing the same design and are fully compatible. They were all created by the clever Mike Dammar from www.spectrolutions.com|
|Content of the upgrade Kit.|
The manual given explain everything and is completed. All screws, heat rubber for isolation, and a small hex key is given. Nice job. The overall frame is light and the wires are hidden in each carbon tube. A spare carbon tube is also in the kit.
Aerodynamic canopy, very light, the circuit board is
maintian by the four pylons.
Maybe the motor mount has a little too much flexion. Let
see if it survive in a small crash. Note that the pinion is now
after the motor mount and no more inside the imaginary
inner circle. It will also be in contact with the ground in case
The kit is not overprice and the frame seems to be reliable and light. A must for all old roswell flyer!
Le contrÃ´le s'effectue en faisant varier les vitesses de rotation et donc en utilisant les couples de contre-réactions des hélices:
Lorque qu'un moteur tourne dans le sens horaire, une contre-réaction se crée qui s'oppose au mouvement, elle essaye de faire tourner le bati en sens anti-horaire. L'effet est réversible et valable pour tout système en rotation ou en mouvement.
Astuces mise en oeuvre
La difficulté est de jouer sur toute les commandes en même temps et de changer l'orientation dans sa tête pour éviter de donner un mauvais ordre au mauvais moment (comme sur un hélico ;-) )
Cette superbe machine a porté les noms suivants: Roswell Flyer - HMX 4 - Draganflyer et a été concue par Mike Dammar de www.spectrolutions.com elle coûte environ 800$ avec une télécommande 4 voies et accus, ce qui reste dans la moyenne d'un hélicoptère électrique. La NASA s'est porté acquéreur de quelques pièces et Georgia Tech a étudié la possibilité d'envoyer un prototype sur la planète MARS (Project GTMARS 1June 2000). Un modèle plus grand existe: le Draganflyer XP mais son prix est astronomique ($5000) bien que livré avec une télécommande et valise valant à eux seul plus de 2000â¬, une caméra sans-fil est livré d'origine.
|The following instructions are meant to guide you
through the use and assembly of the alien technology
known as the Roswell Flyer. Your attention to detail and
safety precautions is mandatory. As we can not be there
to help and guide you, these instructions must bridge
that gap from what sits in front of you, a box of parts,
and the final product, - radio controlled, silicon based
Neatness and accuracy count. You can build the Roswell Flyer in record time and be the first on your block to defy gravity, or, you can take your time, do a good job, and still be the first on the block to defy the elements. The difference is, you will get much better results from the second option.
Flight time is based on many things, how well the gears mesh together, how well you have sanded the rotor blades to a perfect flying will-, and how accurately you follow all these instructions 3o please pay close attention to these assembly instructions and do a good job. There is a test later, its called first flight.
We are counting on you!
The Roswell Flyer is the most exciting R/C product you will own, it is however not a toy. The Roswell Flyer is a very sophisticated flying device that can cause harm to children if not properly attended to. It can cause damage to your personal property if not flown in the appropriate flying area, and of course it can cause you harm if you operate the F;yer in a improper manner.
The Roswell Flyer is run by electric power, while ;seing environmentally safe, the power source is used up -with each flight, as the power decreases, the Flyer is less responsive. Take care to learn the characteristics of the Flyer so that you can be in control of the situation and not the other way around.
AFOT does not accept any responsibility for any damages to humans, pets or personal property due to your use or misuse of this product.
1 Black Composite Frame top 1 Black Composite Round Frame Bottom 4 Black Composite Frame arms 4 Black Composite Motor Mount Braces 4 Plywood motor mounts 4 Aluminum rotor shafts 4 Black Main Gears 4 Aluminum main rotor shafts 4 1/8 inch main rotor retaining clips 8 1/8 id 1/4 OD flanged main rotor bearings 8 3mm X 5mm metal motor mount screws 8 #4-40 X 1/2 nylon rotor mounting screws 8 #4-40 nylon hex nuts 8 1/4 inch threaded nylon rotor spacers 4 Electric motors with pinion gear installed 4 ft Red and Black motor wire 4 Motor noise filter capacitors 2 Clockwise turning main rotors 2 Counter clockwise turning main rotors 1 Main control circuit board 1 Wire antenna 1 Charge Adapter cable 1 8 Cell 600 Mha battery pack 1 square of double sided tape 1 set of Velcro tape 1 Clear plastic packing tray ( has dome and motor covers molded into it)
Note: Some additional screws and retainers may be included as extras, just in case ....
Additional items required: 4 Channel radio Transmitter and receiver 5 Minute Epoxy wire cutters and strippers needle nose pliers Small soldering pencil and solder 100 grit sandpaper 400 grit sandpaper
A special note, TAKE YOUR TIME, dont hurry, we know you want to get in the air quickly but take your time, and make sure that you check things twice before gluing once. Accuracy is important, so TAKE YOUR TIME.
|1. For all four main gears, press two flange bearings
into the 1/4 inch hole in the center of the gear, one on
top, and one on the bottom. The easiest way to do this is
to lay a bearing on the table, flange side down, then
hold the ,ear over the bearing, line up the hole with the
bearing, and press the gear into the bearing using the
palm of your hand. Il may be necessary to deburr the
inside edge of the hole in the gear with a small knife.
One of these will be used in the following steps to check
the alignment of the rotor shaft.
For P-11 four arms, check-fit motor mount brace on end of arrn. If necessary, trim top edge of key on end of arm so that top of brace is flush with top edge of arm. Epoxy in place and let cure. When the Epoxy has cured, double check that the top of the motor mount brace is flush with top edge of arm, if not Band flush.
3. For all four arms, check fit rotor shaft in hole on arm. Apply Epoxy adhesive to rotor shaft about 1 /4 inch below the shoulder clown to about 1/4 inch from bottom of shaft. Push rotor shaft up into hole in end of arm from the bottom. This prevents Epoxy buildup around the top edge. Check to make sure all rotors are square to the top edge of the arm, and that they are all the same. Use one of the gears from step 1 to check the alignment of the shaft by slidi-ng the gear onto the shaft and making sure that the bottom of the gear is parallel with the top edge of the frame. Be very careful not to get any epoxy on the gear or in the bearings. Let Epoxy cure.
For ail four arms, check-St plywood motor mounts on
rotor shafts. If any are too tight to easily push clown,
enlarge hole in plywood with drill. Apply epoxy to top
edge of arm and motor mount brace, making sure epoxy
touches the edges of the laminate for strength. Push
plywood motor mounts down onto rotor shaft and make sure
they are square to rotor shaft. Allow epoxy to cure.
|5. Each motor must have a length of Black and Red
wire. Make four sets of 12.5 inch lengths of red and
black wire. Holding one red and one black wire at the
saure time, push the pair through the foam of the frame,
between the laminates, and into the first small
lightening hole at the top of the arm. Using needle nose
pliers, grab the pair of wires and continue to thread
them through the foam into the center of each subsequent
lightening hole. If you do not wish to put the wire
through the frame you can simply tape it to the bottom of
the frame as shown in the photo.
When the outboard hole is reached, pull an extra three inches of wire through.
6. Important! The top of the
frame (smaller disk with little arms) has a top and a
bottom. Mounting it incorectly will make it impossible to
mount the controller board. I: you hold the top such that
the 1/2 inch wide notch is to the right, and towards you,
then the rectangular hole will be directly beyond the
notch. Check-fit all four arms into the frame top and
bottom. When satisfied of fit, epoxy in place. Make sure
to apply epoxy to all matting surfaces. The frame should
hold itself together if set on a flat surface, however if
it tends to pull apart, use some tape to hold in together
until the epoxy cures.
|7. Strip 3/16 inch insulation from both ends of thje
4 red and black wires that you created, LATER you will
solder these to the motors and circuit board.
8. You are now going to cut pieces (as shown in the photo to the right) of double sided foam tape to the approximate size as shown. Remove ONE side of the paper from the tape and place them on the top piece of the frame. ( shown to the right) You most likely know that you do not want to touch the tape with your fingers as they will lessen the stickiness of the tape. Take your time.
9. Locate the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) over the top of the center of the frame such that the battery connector is oriented over the clearance.notch in the frame ring. Insert the 4 servo connectors through the rectangular hole.
10. Note that the PCB has 8 holes around it's perimeter, 4 labeled black, and 4 labeled red. Feed the red and black wires [rom each arm up through the lightening holes just or, Either side of their respective arms so that the wire colors will match up with the indicated labels on the circuit board..
11. Insert all 8 wires up through the PCB and solder them on the top side. Trim any excess wire with wire cutters.
CAUTION, be careful with the soldering iron the frame
of the Roswell Flyer is very easy to (lamage with the
soldering iron, again Take your lime.
|12. Remove paper covering from double sided tape
already installed on top of frame and secure the PCB onto
the tape. Make sure to pull the wires down through the
holes so that they do not get pinched under the PCB.
13. For each arm, pull the Black out of the wires, but do not make them tight. Set this assembly aside for now.
14. For all four main gears, install two 1/2 inch
nylon screws through the two opposing small holes in the
web of the gear such that the threaded end is on the same
side of the gear as the gear hub. Thread a 1/4 inch nylon
spacer onto each screw and tighten snugly. Do not
over-tighten. Finger tight is good, dont use pliers or
other devices that might damage the plastic sleeves or
|Important! Failure to bevel the edges of the blades
result in the aircraft having significantly reduced flying
tune, and reduced performance. Do not skip these steps,
even if you think you can Jet away with it.
|15. For all four rotors, using 100 gril sandpaper or
file, bevel the top of the leading edge of each blade.
The bevel should be about 1/8 inch wide and the leading
edge should taper to about I/10 the thickness of the
16. For all four rotors, smooth out the marks
from the 100 grit paper and round of the bevel a bit.
Also sand the perimeter of the Made to remove any burrs
and slight round the edges of the trailing edge.
|17. Install all four main gears onto the rotor shafts
nylon screws pointing up, this should also make all the gear
hubs face up.
18. Make sure each 0gear spins very
easily. If you give the
|19. Install a I/8 inch retaining clip on the top of
each rotor shaft. This is most easily done by laying the
ring on the end of the shaft with half of the ring
hanging a bit down the shaft. Using your linger, press
down on the end of the shaft, and work the test of the
ring onto the shaft, then usina needle nose pliers,
carefully push the retaining ring down the rotor shaft
until it seats in the groove.
Caution, these little clips are an alien life form all unto
Themselves, they fly off into the carpet, under doors and
generally just get lost if you dont take your lime. WE
have included sonie extras, you won't need them ho wever
if you work slowly and get the hang of f it. The first one
you do is a bit tricky but once you get the hang of it, the
rest will be easy to do.
20. Install all four motors on the bottom side of the plywood motor mounts using two 3 mm X5 mm machine screws. The gears on the motor ends fit up through the elongated center hole in the mount, and engage with the main gear. Make sure that there is a small amount of slop in the gear mesh, about the thickness of a sheet of paper. Tighten the mounting screws being careful not to crush the plywood.
|21. Now let's attach the wires to the motor. On each
motor there is a red dot, indicating where the red wire
should be soldered, the black wire goes to the other
motor lug. Also for each motor, install a noise filter
capacitor across the two terminals of each motor.
Install the green capacitor across the motor leads, it has been omitted here for clarity. It is also a good idea to slip a bit of heat shrink tubing or tape onto the capacitor leads so that if they gent bent they will not short the motor.
|22. Charge the supplied battery with a correct charger, be sure not to over-charge. Charging batteries is almost an artform, we suggest that you review your charger specs and read again the best way to charge Ni-Cad batteries. We have used various charges and this battery pack will charge with a normal charger in about 25 minutes. Let the battery charge until you can hold it in your hand and feel that the battery is slightly warm, or use a charger that measures the peak of the battery. This is, of course, the best way and the most expensive.|
|23. Connect a four channel RC receiver to the PCB
usine the four provided connectors. Use the following
color codes to make sure the correct plugs are installed.
Yellow/Red/Black Throttle (Futaba Channel 6)
Blue wire Elevator (Futaba Channel 2)
|23a Attach receiver to underside of PCB usine two
double sided foam tape. You can follow the procedures in
the step 23 b if you want to use built in stubby antenna or do
Ri-in antenna wire around frame through Lightening,
holes, or use a commercially available short antenna that is
glued to the frame. We recommend that the antenna point
up and to the rear for orientation reasons
NOTE: usine built in antenna:
Warning! The following steps require you to cut the an-
tenna wire on your receiver. This will most likely void the
warranty on the receiver, so make sure that you want to do
23b Solder the 7 inch long piece of music wire into the hole
on the PCB near the round black cylinder. At about 1/2
inch above the PCB, bend the wire over towards the center
of th_- PCB. Now where the antenna crosses t the cc-ILcr Une
of thÃ© dise, bend it so as to align with the rear arm. Cut the
receiver antenna wire long enough to reach the hole marked
"Ant" on the PCB, from the bottom, with about 1/2 inch of -
slack. Strip about 1/4 inch of insulation from the end of the
wire, and push it up through the frame, and into the hole
marked "Ant" on the PCB and solder in place.
|Alake sure none of the rotor blades are attached
for the following steps. Failure to follow this in-
struction could result in damage to the aircraft or
injury to you!
|24. The purpose of these steps is to make sure the
transmuter is properly set up. Set the transmitter
throttle stick to ils mid point and turn on the
transmuter. Make sure the power switch on the Circuit
board is turned OFF, then connect the battery to the
25. Set the Flyer on a flat, open surface, (the floor is good) making sure that nothing can catch in the gears. If you have long hair, secure it so that it will not fall into the cgears, and do not wear any lose clothing that might gel caught in the gears.
26. While holding the aircraft down by the center area (PCB) use your thumb to turn on the power switch( small black slide switch). The motors should not corne on, but the LED (little red lioht) should begin ta flash. 1vlove the throttle stick on the transmitter up (increase throttle) the LED should blink faster, If it instead blinks slower, flip the reveres switch for the throttle channel on the transmitter. Note the LED should blink faster with more throttle, and slower with reduced throttle. The motors will NOT turn on at this lime, the Flyer is not yet ARMED.
27. On your radio transmitter set the throttle to minimum, and set the throttle trim to minimum.
|28. With the aircraft sitting solidly on the flat
surface (do not pick it up) carefully push the arming
switch (small white rectangular button labeled
"caution") on the top of the PCB. Be prepared
for the motors to come on or give a little kick.
For the following steps, push the throttle stick until
the motors just start to spin (about 1/3 throttle)
29. The motors should not be turning, or turning very
slowly . Move the rudder stick (rudder /throttle stick)
to full left, both the left and the right motors should
turn on, and the front and rear motors should slow down
or stop turring. If the opposite happens, flip the servo
reversing switch on the transmitter. The motors should
now respond as described.
30. Move the aileron /elevator stick full forward, the rear motor should speed up and the front motor should slow down. If the opposite happens, flip the servo reversing switch for the elevator on the transmitter. This should make i; function as described.
|31. Move the aileron/ elevator stick full right. The
left motor should turn on or go faster, and the right
motor should slow down or stop. If the opposite happens,
flip the servo reversing switch for the aileron channel
on the transmitter,. This should fix the problem.
32. Now move the throttle stick forward until the motors just start to turn. Adjust the elevator trim so that the front and rear motors are spinning at about the same speed, or so they corne ,ii at Zhu same time when the throttle stick is pushed forward.
|33. In a similar fashion, adjust the aileron trim so
that the left and right motors run at about the same
speed, start at the same time when throttle is applied.
34. Now adjust the rudder trim so that the front/rear and left/right motor pairs run at about the same speed, or come on at about the same time when throttle is applied.
Note: This may all seem a bit
complicated but don't worry,
35 Disconnect and remove the battery pack
36. Position the frame in front of you so that the
37. We highly recommend that you mark the front arm or
Never fly this aircraft where damage to property or injury to persons may result if loss of control occurs.
Never leave the Flyer unattended with a battery connected to it. Always disconnect battery when not flying.
Always turn the Roswell Flyer off FIRST and then turn of the transmitter. Failure to do so could cause the Flyer to become airborne and out of control resulting in injury or damage
1. Turn the black sliding switch to the off position
2. Connect the battery to the PCB
3. Turn on the transmitter, and make sure that the throttle is fully closed.
4. Turn the switch on the Flyer to the ON position. You should note that the LED will staff i blinking. Make sure at this stage that when you advance the throttle stick, that the LED blinks faster. This verifies the functionality of tire radio link. Return the throttle to minimum.
5 . While holding the Flyer down on the ground at the center, push the arming switch on the Flyer. Be prepared for the motors to turn on at any time! If they come on for some reason, and you can not throttle them back, turn off the switch on the PCB and check the radio and receiver.
6. Back away from the flyer to a safe distance.
?. Slowly increase the throttle until the Flyer gets light, and the adjust the trims on the transmitter, so that i: doesn't icimediately turn or try to fly off in some direction:
The Roswell Flyer flies similar to a helicopter, if you are
model helicopter pilot, you should be up and flying within a
few minutes. If you aren't familiar with choppers, dont
worry the Roswell Flyer is actually much easier than a
The trickiest part is getting used to the rotation. Start by giving it just enough throttle to get the aircraft light, and then practice keeping the front arm always pointing forward. Make sure you have a good feel for this before you try and get much higher off the ground.
While the Roswell Flyer is designed primarily for hovering, forward flight is more than possible. One thing to note though, as the speed of the Flyer increases, it will require more and more forward stick to keep it going, eventually it will pitch up and stop the forward motion. With this in mind, be aware that as you move to forward flight the flight performance will change and require more transmitter input to maintain the forward motion.
The Roswell Flyer can fly outdoors in a limited amount of wind, however, do to the very lfight disk loading of the Flyer, it will become difficult to maintain station in a moderate breeze.
Y ou can fly the Roswell Flyer as high as you like so long as you can still see it well enough to control the flyer. However care should be taken not to stay up high too long as you may not have enough battery power to make a successful landing. Also a rapid vertical descent should be avoided for similar reasons.
The Roswell Flyer is designed to Nover at about 1/3 to 1/2 throttle with the supplied battery pack in the fully charged state. As the battery approaches the end of its charge, you will notice that more throttle input is required to hold it in a hover. This is how you tell is the battery is running low, and it is at this point that you should be begin planning your landing or at least getting near the spot where you intend to land.
The Roswell Flyer should be able to Nover for about 3 minutes on a fully charged battery pack, alter that time, it will descend to a point where it will only fly about a foot off the ground. After about ) 0 to 20 seconds, you -ill notice that it takes more than 3/4 throttle to maintain a low Nover. At about this point the Flyer will start to become somewhat unstable and it is at this point that it is best to land and recharge the battery. This period of instability at the end of the battery charge is normal and is caused be the lower battery voltage in the discharged state.
|Optional performance enhancement ideas:
The Fine Art of Tweaking:
While thÃ© rotor components of thÃ© Roswell Flyer are care-
fully machined to perform well without much need for ad-
justment, you may be able to make your Flyer even smoother
by tracking and balancing thÃ© blades.
The rotor blades on thÃ© Roswell Flyer are very light and
spin at a relatively low RPM so balance isn't as critical as it
would be on an airplane propeller. None thÃ© less, a well bal-
anced machine (helicopter or Flyer) is a joy to fly.
To balance thÃ© blades on thÃ© Roswell Flyer, loosen thÃ©
screws that hold one of thÃ© motors and pull it back so that
thÃ© gears no longer mesh and thÃ© rotor turns freely. Now
tilt thÃ© Flyer into a 90 degree bank and notice what thÃ©
blade does. If one blade or thÃ© rotors always seems to swing
down, then that is thÃ© "heavy" blade. You can do one of two
things at this point.
1. Sand a small amount of material from thÃ© edge heavy
blade until it balances.
2. Add a small piece of tape to thÃ© light blade until it bal-
ances ( wrap tape half on top and half on thÃ© bottom of thÃ©
blade so it won't peel off
Now return thÃ© motor to its' origine' _ position
That is it, just do the same procedure for all four
Tracking refers to making thÃ© tips of thÃ© rotor
blades fly at
Ã¯ o start with, you need to check thÃ© existing
|The marked blade will either be high or low, just
remember which land, and disconnect the battery.
If the marked blade was low then you may want to increase its' pitch, if the marked blade was high, then you should reduce its' pitch.
The pitch can be quickly adjusted by heating the root of the rotor right at the rim of the gear, with a heat gun. Heat only until the material just starts to soften. Then twist the blade in the desired direction (don't twist very much just a degree or so) then hold the blade still for about a minute while it cools.
Check the results by hovering again, and adjust as required to get good tracking.
|High speed uncontrolled ground contact
(or a crash to the rest of us)
|Beginners Read This.
If you are
new to R/C choppers and planes, in the words of Douglas
Adams, DONT PANIC. It is out experience that new pilots
tend to over control the transmitter sticks, or just the
opposite, they do nothing at all. Some place between too
much and too little is that happy place where the Flyer
Oies and you have fun. The best place to find the
"Flying grove" is to practice in short spurts,
Hop the flyer off the ground a few roches, but do so with
a purpose in mind. Like, keep the nose point in a certain
direction or make the flyer moue right and then set down.
Above all else take your time, think about what you are
doing, before you do it.
|All parts of the Roswell i Flyer ire available for sale as replacements. Visit out web-site at www.afot.com to order these parts. Or see your local dealer for parts if all else faits, call us direct at 1-800-32$-0184. In a pinch improvise, with all parts, except the motors, the circuit board and the gears. The test of the Flyer is there for you to experiment with. Let your imagination run wild, just be sale and if you fend out other tips and tricks or corne up with a cool design, contact us and share the information. We will be glad to post articles on things you have done to the Flyer, on out web-site.|
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